Down Channel 5

 

Impatient to be back at sea, with a fair breeze, Stargazer barrels out through Dover's western entrance. Two reefs in the main. Twenty two knots true, on her quarter. The good wishes of Port Control ringing in our ears.

There are still almost three hours of foul tide to run. But I reason that any progress, however slow, is worth having. And it is too good a sailing day to be be sat in port waiting for the tide.

Stargazer shames me, with my doubts about making progress. Foul spring tide or no, we are immediately making four and a half knots over the ground.

Rising to better than five, once we tuck close in beneath the chalk cliffs, seeking out the slackest water. Or an early turning eddy.

We hold our inshore course until high gabled houses peer out from the wooded shore, behind Folkestone's breakwater. To seaward, two grey rectangles stand static on a seething horizon. They are the Dungerness nuclear power stations. The low spit, on which they are built, lost behind the tumbling march of the waves.

We gybe out to sea. The tide is on the turn. Now we want to feel its full force. Stargazer's ground track describes an arc, westward, over the next two hours. We are still broad reaching, on the port tack. But, such is the strength of the tide, our course has altered by thirty degrees or more. Our speed over ground is touching nine knots.

The jut, of Dungerness' shingle snout, spearing into the Channel wind and tide, stirs a breaking sea. Soon past. Twenty five miles ahead lies Sovereign Harbour. Now averaging seven to eight knots, and back on the starboard give, we have a full four hours of fair tide still to run. Stargazer may make it in before dark.

We sweep on. Shaking reefs out as the wind eases to sixteen, then fourteen true. Splashes of afternoon sun chase across Stargazer's boiling wake. The seas flatten. The wind eases. The tide begins to slacken. . .  then to turn. Stargazer is loping along at five knots, once more. Twilight gathers. Dusk falls. I switch the instruments over to night view. Peering ahead into the darkness. Soothed by the soporific hiss and swish as Stargazer silently surges over the hidden swells. 

 I pick out the occulting reds and greens, of the breakwater beacons, against the shimmer of shore lights. The one I need to identify is the flashing white, of the safe water mark. From there I will be guided down the approach channel by the sector light.* But I cannot make it out. Even with the help of the chart plotter. Which says we are almost on top of it . I dowse sail. To give a wider field of view. . . .and in case we need to back track swiftly. Then I see the safe water mark. We are indeed right on top of it. The jib had masked it. 

*A Sector Light shows white for safely on course. Green for too far to starboard. Red for too far to port. A course, from Sovereign Harbour's safe water mark, with the sector light showing white, leads through the breakwater, avoiding a shoal, a wreck and, most likely, any lurking pot buoys.

Down Channel 4

 

Was Stargazer's priority entry (over P&O's Pride of Kent), on Wednesday, the result of quick thinking opportunism, by the ever helpful Port Control?

Or, perhaps, a sign of disgruntlement at P&O's sacking of its ferry crews? Many based here in Dover. Local sentiment is strong. Witnessed by the building-high billboard, beside the dual carriageway leading to the ferry terminal, which directs drivers to deny P&O ferries their custom.

Yesterday we enjoyed a relaxing pit stop day in port. Whilst Stargazer took our two day beat, out to the Channel, in her stride; I awoke with stiff limbs and rope-sore palms. More out of condition, after a winter ashore, than I had realised.

Today, both Stargazer and I are ready to ride the passage making north east winds. Before they fall light, over the Bank Holiday.

The plan is to leave Dover mid afternoon, carrying a fair tide west, past Dungeness (where it runs the hardest) and as far into Rye Bay as possible. Before taking to the shoreside shoals, off Hastings, to cheat the turn of the tide. Aiming to lock into Sovereign Harbour in the small hours of Saturday morning.

Down Channel 3

 

Stargazer rides the long swell, sweeping through the Gull Stream, twenty four knots of breeze at her back. The sun has just broken through, sparkling on the foam flecked water. The recumbent arm of the South Foreland is draped across the horizon.

It has been a long hard beat, out of the Swale and on to North Foreland. Tack on tack up the channel.

Skimming the shoals, over to the Whitstable shore. Battling for our easting.

Then a shoulder down charge, along the north Kent coast. Short tacking through the Copperas channel. Stargazer's boards becoming progressively longer, as the waters deepen, beyond Herne Bay. The seas short and steep.

Until we gain the open sea. Round the North Foreland. Stargazer at last able to point her bows Down Channel. To ease her sheets, surf the swells.

Stargazer crosses the wake of Merlin, inbound for Ramsgate, making eight knots over the ground. Once past, I duck below, taking advantage of the eased motion, to brew soup and coffee.

Stargazer thunders down the Gull Stream. The deep water channel which bisects the Goodwin Sands. And funnels the force of the tide. On deck, I begin to ready lines and fenders. At this rate, we will soon arrive off Dover's eastern entrance.

"Dover Port Control, Stargazer, arriving from the north. Permission to enter harbour, please."

"Stargazer, I'm tracking you. Please make your best speed. . . . (The P&O Ferry). . . . Pride of Kent is about to come away. You have a green to enter."

Stargazer rockets through the harbour mouth, all sails drawing, making nine point two knots over the ground.

Down Channel 2

 

Stargazer smokes east, along the Sheppey shoreline. Carving her spray strewn way, through the short chop, in eighteen knots apparent. Hard on the wind.

This morning we beat down river with the Tuesday Club. (A Corinthian weekly cruise in company, from the upriver marinas and club moorings, which pauses for a convivial lunch at anchor in Stangate Creek. Completely spontaneous it has become a Medway midweek institution). 

Stargazer scythes her way through the fleet. Standing on past the silos of Thamesport. . . . .

. . . .and out into the London River.

The ebbing tide urges us along. And depths reduce beneath Stargazer's keel. Soon we are able to ease sheets, to tiptoe across the spit, which guards the mouth of the Swale. 

Stargazer runs down the channel, toward Faversham Creek . Whitstable to port.

We round the point, at Harty Ferry, in search of a lee.

Finding our sheltered anchorage behind its wooded flank.

Down Channel 1

 

Stargazer reels in the gusts. Tugging at her lines. Eager to be under way. Aware that the tides have been fair these past three days, or more. Her ensign snaps and cracks impatiently on the backstay. This north east breeze is favourable, for a passage south. But it is gusting to thirty knots. Too strong for the beat out of the Medway and on to North Foreland; before we ease sheets for a broad reach Down Channel.

Today four hundred runners stream around the dock side boulevards, in the April sunshine. They are competing in the annual Chatham Maritime 10k Marathon. Pacing themselves to make the distance, as Stargazer and I must. We have the whole summer ahead of us, the time to pick our weather windows; however keen we may be for our cruise to begin.

On Stargazer's bulkhead, the barometer is already rising. The north east wind is forecast to ease, through the coming week. Tides will be neap. Reducing their accelerative assistance; but also alleviating depth anxieties, amongst the shoals of the north Kent coast. They favour mid morning departures and evening arrivals. Once we identify our weather window.

Making Ready 12

 

The boom plug (Selden part number 319-872, I know it by heart), fits as snugly as Cinderella's slipper. Stargazer is finally fully ready for sea. The original was damaged during the winter rig overhaul. A replacement was ordered. . . . .with, what turned out to be, a perpetually 'manyana' delivery date.

Stargazer had sailed, for her Early Bird East Coast shakedown cruise, without the plug. A weather eye kept on the integrity of the 'axle' for the boom's reefing pulleys (which it secures). This week, with no sign of the plug being delivered, I began ringing round the nation's riggers. Discovering, through Deborah's good offices, that Mike, up at Fox's, on the Orwell, had two. Quite literally in his back pocket. On Thursday I collected them. All offers of payment were declined. Thank you to Deborah and Mike, at Fox’s Boatyard!

Back home, the fencers have finished their work . Replacing the flattened wooden posts and panels, felled by storms Eunice, Dudley and Franklin, with more robust affairs. Securing the house for the summer.

During the week ahead tides turn fair. Better still, north east winds are forecast, perfect for a passage south. Soon Stargazer will discover what adventures our 2022 cruise holds in store for her.

Early Bird 7

 

The night is moonless dark, studded with stars. A frost glitters scrunchy crisp on Stargazer's decks, as we hoist sail off Woolverstone. Pick our way gingerly downstream, along the pathway of green and red flashes. Past the cranes of Felixstowe. A blaze of light in the night. A hum of activity in the stillness.

A bleary sun clambers unsteadily into the sky. Wreathed in cloud. As if still clutching its duvet, against the dawn chill.

Stargazer broad reaches seaward, through the Medusa Channel. It is low water springs. We are double reefed. In part to give me reaction time, in case the depth drops unacceptably. In part whilst the breeze reveals its true colours, clear of the shore.

The Naze Tower is a mile to starboard. Stargazer is clear of the shoals, which guard the Orwell approaches. The sun beams, fully risen, duvet discarded . I brew a celebratory pot of coffee and shed one thermal layer.

The breeze settles to a steady eighteen knots on the starboard quarter. Perfect. Ten nautical miles ahead lies the Swin Spitway. It is now 07.00. We do not want to arrive before 09.00. In order to give enough rise of tide for Stargazer to slip through. 

Such is our speed (SOG), there is a danger that we may. I furl the jib, to take some way off. We arrive at 08.50. I put full faith in my "black book," of depth clearances, and commit to the gutway. Creeping through, at four knots, hugging our waypoints (not the buoyed channel) precisely. Least depth: point nine of a metre.

Now it is time to give Stargazer her head. She spreads her wings, Full main and jib unfurled before a fair wind.

A fair tide urges Stargazer south. Bearding the channel buoys with boiling white wakes. 

Stargazer stands in toward the north Kent shore. Now a hazy sliver of grey on the horizon. Revelling in this champagne conjunction of wind, weather and tide.

Big skies, filled with bubbling clouds, dwarf the merchantmen; which scurry along the shipping lanes of the London River.

Stargazer sweeps on. Slaloming through shipping. The cranes of Thamesport, and the entrance to the Medway, now in plain sight. Successfully shaken down, ready for the season. Eager to be on her way.

Early Bird 6

 

April is arrived, with its vivid caprices. Loosing shafts of sunlight, from boiling thunderous skies. Setting Blue Mermaid's freshly painted topsides aglow, as she refits on the Pin Mill hard.

Out in the river, the north east gale blows unabated. White horses set boats bucking at their moorings. Clouds scud overhead. Light chases shade across the water.

Reeds nod sagely, stood in ranks before the Butt and Oyster: "Four seasons in one day. April's here," they agree.

Green buds adorn grey branches, on the bank above. Heralds of spring.

In the shelter of Harry King's boatyard, the sun shows its warming strength. An orange jacketed figure clambers beneath beached hulls, paintbrush in hand. Antifouling is underway.

Completed boats are wheeled out to the high water mark, in cradles. Ready for their relaunch.

I walk the inland route, for my return to Stargazer. Behind a windbreak of blossoming trees. Their canopies protection from hit and run hail showers.

I ponder our options: A passage south is possible, carrying a fair tide, from tomorrow (albeit requiring an 02.00 alarm). The gale is forecast to be easing and will be blowing from astern (reducing the strength of the apparent wind).  Sunday and Monday's tides would allow a daylight departure. But Sunday's winds look fickle. And Monday's appear to be the build up to a new blow, this time a headwind.

I will set the alarm and take stock tomorrow. In hopes of fair wind and fair tide, for a passage south.