Finesse

Mike Richey is celebrated for his Atlantic crossings at the helm of the 26 foot, junk rigged, modified folkboat 'Jester.' The boat originally owned and developed by solo ocean racing pioneer Blondie Haslar (https://www.junkrigassociation.org/Resources/Documents/Hall%20of%20Fame/Hall%20of%20Fame%20-%20Mike%20Richey.pdf ). Mike once said that crafting a passage under sail was like hand fashioning a wooden chair: Many disparate elements must be brought together and finessed until they create a whole, which is at once aesthetically pleasing and functional.

Our cruise finessing begins as soon as Stargazer comes alongside. Alan, the sail maker, meets us to collect the sprayhood. The UV has got to the fabric of the zips and they have split, during our East Coast trip.

The next task is to provision for twelve weeks, whilst we have a car available to haul heavy or bulky items to the boat. The aim is to restrict hikes to the supermarche and boulangerie to collecting (light) fresh produce only, during the cruise.

 I pore over Stargazer's logs, tidal atlases and almanacs to shape the outline of a cruise plan. It never pays to be too hard and fast, ultimately the weather at the time will have the final say, but its good to know your options and opportunities. The walled city of Boulogne is the obvious first French port of call. A single tide from Dover.

For boats headed south west, Dieppe - with its elegantly tall, pastel painted, apartments lining the harbour - is the next, deep water port.

From there its a short hop to Fecamp. Stargazer's first French stopover, when she sailed from Poole to her new home on the Medway.

Then we sail into uncharted, or at least un-visited, territory for a while. Honfleur and St Vaast la Hougue beckon. Both have their navigational challenges. Both promise great scenic rewards.

Back in familiar waters, Cherbourg is perfectly placed for our passage through the notorious Raz Blanchard (or, less evocatively, the Alderney Race).

Cherbourg is hosting a major yacht regatta from the 16 to 19 of July. Due to the need to maintain social distancing, it has announced that it is temporarily closed to visitors during this time.

A contrast to the situation when Stargazer (bows on, middle of picture) last visited. Then the visitors berths were near deserted. We will probably arrive after the regatta fleet has dispersed. An element of our cruise to finesse as we go.

St Peter Port, on Guernsey, too is closed. Not for a regatta, but seemingly for the whole summer. The bailwick is isolating. There can be no stopovers in Alderney, Guernsey or Jersey - not even in their many enticing anchorages.The situation is thought unlikely to change.

It will be Normandy ports all the way to Brittany!

We will sail along the western shore of the Cotentin peninsula. An opportunity to visit the market town of Cartaret or renew our acquaintance with Dielette and Granville. The last time Stargazer sailed from Granville she was serenaded by a school of aerobatic dolphins, as we rounded the Iles Chausey. In the right conditions, there is a fine rock strewn anchorage to be found there...

Or, if conditions are too boisterous, there is the shelter of the fishing harbour at Granville itself.

St Malo is a short day sail away. To the west lies Brittany's Cote du Granite Rose, and the enchanting Chateau Costaires. It guards the jewel which is Ploumanac'h. A natural harbour, hewn by wave action, out of the living rock. Stargazer can only stay afloat in there at neaps. Another element to finesse as we go.

Three days ago, we started with a long list of shore jobs, to complete before we leave. Many have been crossed off. Some new ones have spontaneously emerged. Each day the list grows encouragingly shorter.

The weekend's gale (the second in two weeks) has abated today. The forecasts are indicating light to moderate south westerlies from Thursday, followed by a spell of northerlies next week . Fair winds to carry us east to Dover and on south west along the Normandy coast.