Rock Hopper

Stargazer slips in under the shelter of Cap Frehel's outstretched arm, at dusk.

Through the day we have reached fast, swooping over blue ocean swells - fresh in from the Atlantic. With their long powerful surfing rhythm. Quite different in character to the jabbering Channel chops, and the quarrelsome short steep North Sea waves, through which we have sailed. These have the long American drawl and a look of freedom in their glittering eyes.

Stargazer threaded her way between rocky outcrops and submerged reefs. Les Ecrehou, with small improbable houses perched atop them - if you look closely. Les Bouefs, Les Minquiers and the Iles Chausee.

Then we are in clear water. A fair tide sweeping us west toward Cap Frehel and the Brittany shoreline . I haul down the two lions of Normandy, from our starboard spreader, and hoist the Gwenn - ha - du. The black and white Breton flag.

The breeze, that has faithfully driven us all day, fades in the lee of the Cap. There is enough, though, for us to sail in through the entrance to St Cast le Guildo's harbour. We settle down comfortably for the night, beneath the rough stone mole.

This morning, through Stargazer's open companionway, I have a view of the harbour entrance, the beach and the town beyond.

An all-tide path has been built along the cliff base, joining town and marina. New since we first visited here.

I set off in search of fresh croissant for breakfast.

The tide is out and the search is on for a sea food lunch.

Today the winds are light. Resting after yesterday's heroic westerly five to six. As are Stargazer and I. Tomorrow an easterly three to four is forecast. Cruising chute weather.

We catch the morning tide. My alarm is set for 01.00. That will give us a fair tide, and daylight entry, into the magnificently rock strewn Treguier River. Brittany at its rugged rawest best.