Dawn Treader

A dawn suffused with violet and mauve unfolds before us.

I sat aboard Stargazer, mug of coffee in hand, waiting for the first chink of predawn light. Enough to pick out the unlit posts and towers against the shimmer of the water. Then let slip our lines.

We ghost out to sea on a zephyr of breeze and the ebbing tide.

The sun climbing higher as we go. Adding smouldering sparks to a smokey sky.

Before settling to a golden early morning glow.

We are out of the lee of the river now and the sun is high in the sky. Heating the land. Driving a sea breeze. Stargazer bounds off. An exuberant bow wave climbs aft and clambers aboard the lee scuppers.

We forge past Les Sept Isles, double reefed. Putting in long, tide assisted, tacks. Sailing in our favourite passage-making eighteen to twenty two knots of apparent wind. The main island lies like a slumbering lion on the horizon. Mane aglow in the  clear light of a new day.

Our next tack brings Stargazer close inshore, off the entrance to Ploumanac'h, to marvel at the deeply riven rocks of the 'cote de granit rose.' It is spring tides at the moment, so we cannot venture inside. We would be aground at low water if we did. Neaps are needed for Stargazer to stay afloat here.

Out we tack again, past the western most of  Les Sept Iles. Then back inshore - for a close up view of the pink granite tor, balanced off the entrance to Port Blanc anchorage. Shielding it from the waves.

Then we're tacking across the Baie de Morlaix. Dodging its reefs and islets. Picking out the channel markers.

Tonight Stargazer is alongside in Roscoff, on the western shore of the Baie de Morlaix.  Today's has been a truly memorable sail. It passed in a blur of carefree fulfillment. A perfect combination of wind, sea and coastline. A timely reminder that this is a cruising ground to savour, with a leisurely exploration. Not to hurry through. Today alone we have passed four ports and some fine anchorages. It is time for some relaxed north Brittany pottering.