Spellbound

Please note: This post has (somehow) jumped out of its place in the cruise timeline. And I can't work out how to return it! It belongs after Fuzzy Logic and before Dawn Treader. Posting date 1.8.20. Magic spells at work!

It is Friday evening. Boats start arriving, in Treguier, for the weekend. Lines are quickly taken. Those safely moored know that the tide flows unforgivingly swiftly through these pontoons. Tales are told. Travellers' tales. Thus the spell is cast, in the soft evening light . The will to sail, with the Saturday morning tide, leaves me.

We shall stay another day. Savour Treguier to the full. This is the Breton magic which we came to experience. Although it is the weekend, the day is regulated by the regal hourly tolling of the cathedral clock bells, like any other. The zero seven hundred chimes are muffled. From zero eight hundred, there is a resonating power to the chimes, speaking of utter certainty. Overnight, silence reigns.

Stargazer is surrounded by boats of all nations. To port, French. To starboard, Dutch. Ahead Belgian. Generally bound west and then south. We, north sea based boats, are now a month out of our home ports. If we started back today, we would arrive in late August. When should we turn for home? Can we count on the September weather? What about the shorter days? These are questions for us all. 

The forecasts are settled for the next couple of weeks, but winds are light. Perhaps it is better to explore the intricate delights of the north Breton ports. Distances are short between them - if the wind dies there are many alternative harbours and anchorages to choose . South west of L'Aber Wrac'h there is a week of long hops, with time critical tidal gates, before reaching Benodet Bay - south Brittany proper. In light winds, this could result in motoring rather than sailing. A fate which Stargazer has, so far, avoided .  Time, perhaps, to remember Mike Richey's advice (Finesse post): Dovetail a cruise together, so that all the elements fit - like hand making a comfortable and elegant chair.

Outboard of Stargazer lie a row of aluminium hulled Boreals. I remark, to an owner, how suited these rock- resistant, fleet footed, centreboard boats are to these craggy tidal waters - and enquire if there is a rally on. He proudly explains that Chantier Boreal designs and builds them here in Treguier. They have just been launched. They are, covid delayed, winter built boats being handed over to be sailed home. In his case to The Chesapeake, across the North Atlantic. 

Sunday's sunrise and tide times coincide almost perfectly. Forecast winds are down to a westerly three. Stargazer's apparent wind should be closer to a four, however, with the tide pushing us into the breeze. We sail for the Baie de Morlaix. If the wind drops on us, Perros Guirec or Trebeurden are under our lee.