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The weather system, of the high westerly winds, is moving through. Bringing the welcome return of sunny skies and strolls around the waterfront.

The breeze now from the north west. Just stealing around the cliffs enough to ripple the harbour.

On the seaward side of the breakwater, kite surfers are at play. In thirty knots of wind.

Scything across foam flecked waters.

Off Toulinguet, a stately galleon, squaresails set on her foremast, runs before the near-gale. Making for Douarnenez, by her course.

Whilst Stargazer is joined, in Camaret, by the Brest based, La Recouverence. (The name given to the urban regeneration scheme, launched following the relocation of the naval base, from Brest, across the Rade to Le Fret).

Winds are forecast to ease through Friday morning. Whether in time for a birthday sail, though the Raz de Sein, only a dawn check can reveal.

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At last, the halyard is freed. Maridadi's sail may be furled.

My camera, well zoomed in, reveals the source of Maridadi's, seemingly intractible, furler problems.

Her husband and wife crew, combined age one hundred and fifty, have been trying valiantly, in any lulls since arrival, to unjam it. To no avail. 

A 'standard' halyard wrap, has cleated itself in a slot, at the head of the foil. Which explains why it is resisting all efforts to simply be unwound. An upward pull is required, to uncleat the halyard.

The first option is to hoist a shackle, up the fouled halyard, on the topping lift. To pull it out of its resting place. If that does not work, I am placed on standby to tail a winch, whilst the bosun is wound aloft by her husband: "I go up all the time. Really, Don't worry. We have been sailing around the world for the past twelve years."

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When the hardened skippers, of the Glenans Sailing School, put into port for shelter, it is time to take notice of conditions at sea.

For Glenans skippers are happy to sail, in almost all circumstances. Particularly with a Friday handover deadline looming. Today, though, is an exception.

Dougall (pictured on her way in and alongside), I recognise as a Concarneau boat. With the notorious Raz de Sein, between her and home. 

A tidal race, through the shoal gap, between the Ile de Sein and the mainland. In strong onshore (westerly) winds, chaotic breaking seas are produced. Hazardous to shipping. Let alone to small craft.

Last night, the Hallberg-Rassy 342 (big sister to Stargazer) Wind Singer, determined to return north, took the long route. West of the Ile de Sein and the rocky islands, to seaward of the Toulinguet gap. The wind at her back as it increased, from twenty five to thirty knots. (Yellow arrowed track, on Ile de Sein chartlet). Her tired crew reporting 'robust' conditions.

 The Swedish flagged, forty five footer, Maridadi (red hull) arrived this morning. Forty eight hours out of Viveiro (in north west Spain). Announced by a thunderously flogging genoa. The powerful sail half furled. Before the gear failed, at sea. So that it cannot be dropped. Nor, despite the efforts of many helping hands, can it now be temporarily wrapped around the forestay. The wind is too strong. The sail too large. It must fly, until the wind abates.

A French flagged Beneteau is forced to moor, alongside Maridadi, on the outside of the wave break. She with her mainsail still set. A fold of sailcloth is preventing her, in-mast furling, main from retracting through the mast slot. The fold is quickly winched out, and the flogging canvas stowed, in the relative calm of Camaret harbour.

By Friday, the forecast has the breeze dropping, by around fifteen knots, and veering north. Creating a tail wind for both Stargazer and the Glenans skippers. Whose advice I will be seeking, on the likely residual sea state, in the Raz de Sein.

Picture Credits

Wind Singer track / Ile de Sein chartlet courtesy of MarineTraffic.com

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The Vauban tower, which Stargazer takes to be Camaret's welcome (Dandelion 33), was built for the opposite purpose. To repel the British and Dutch. 

Whose warships had designs upon Napoleon's main battle fleet. At anchor in the Rade, beyond the narrow, fortified channel, known as the Goulet (throat). Or upon the naval dockyards, in Brest.

Today, the horizontal red white and blue stripes, of the Dutch flag, and British red ensigns stream in a freshening westerly breeze.

 The British and Dutch boats outnumber those flying the French Tricolore. With a German flagged Ovni (newly collected, from the yard in Les Sables d’Olonne) for good measure. Stargazer lies in the lee of the Vauban tower. In the midst of this international fleet, which grows larger with every tide.

For the mirror calm, since Stargazer's arrival, has broken. It is forecast to be replaced by a stormy spell, of onshore weather. Likely to create breaking seas in the Raz de Seine. 

Southbound boats must tarry. Beneath the weathered masonry, of the Vauban tower.

 

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Blue Starflower glow, from the verdant tumult of twined grasses and scrub.

Above the silver crescent of Porz-Naye. Where ochre sandstones meet pale shales and granite. Lapped by Caribbean blue waters.

Green aphids sup the last of the morning dew. Cupped within a stand of white petalled, yellow yoked, Burnet Rose.

Which shelters a timid posy of Pink Sorrel.

To seaward, a wave hewn arch. Its clefts chromed with tenacious streaks of lichen.

In a sun-trap hollow, Red Valerian rises loftily.

In the lee of a gnarled flying buttress, of weather-worn schist.

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Pen Duick lll is coming away, as Stagazer moors, in Camaret. The boat in which Eric Tabarly won the 1967 Sydney Hobart race. Prompting a rewrite of the yacht racing rules, regarding the rating of schooner rigs. 

She was built to his own design, in aluminium. Sporting a rakish clipper bow. Her lines influenced by Eric's childhood experience, aboard his father's, Fife designed, gaff cutter. The original Pen Duick (Coal Tit in Breton). [Photographed in Port Louis last year].

Today, Pen Duick lll is bound south, once more. Not for Sydney, Australia; but for the Raz de Seine. The same sixteen knots of north westerly breeze, which bore Stargazer down the Chenal du Four, are fair to shoot the Raz (tide race) into Biscay.

True sailors, the crew waste no time in hoisting sail. Beating powerfully out of Camaret Bay.

The ocean racing thoroughbred heels to the breeze, as she bears off, once clear. Striding toward the open horizon, of the Atlantic Ocean. Her famous concave bow cleaving the swell, in a welter of salt spray.

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The sea breeze is up, as Stargazer sweeps in beneath the multicoloured cliffs of Toulinguet.

She left L'Aber Wrac'h in the first light of a monochrome morning.

Riding the Atlantic rollers. Travelled three thousand miles, from the Newfoundland Banks. To break on this sombre shoreline, of reefs and pinnacles.

Stargazer lays the Le Four light in two tacks. By shaving, as close as she dare, to the craggy shoals.

The mood brightens: Stargazer eases sheets. Her skipper indulges in a light (second) breakfast, in a sun-warmed (and now level) cockpit.

For we are at the head of the Chenal du Four. Borne south on its fierce tide. Making seven knots over the ground.

Our route well marked. The wind on the quarter. The cliffs of Finistere to port. 

 L'Ouessant (Ushant), to seaward, providing a welcome wavebreak.

Stargazer gybes beneath the hexagonal red, Les Vieux Moines (Old Monks), topmark. Before the abbey, semaphore and lighthouse atop the Pointe de Saint Mathieu.

She romps across the outer Rade de Brest, down to the Toulinguet lookout. Broad reaching fast, as the midday sun whips up a thermal wind.

Before us, the warm glow of the ruddy brickwork, of Camaret's Vauban Tower, smiles a welcome, over the harbour wall.

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Local trawlers ply confidently, between the islands and outcrops, of the outer estuary. Guided by a combination of mysterious top marks and local knowledge.

Whilst we leisure sailors seldom stray far beyond the buoyage, of the main channel. Preferring to admire, the craggy rockscape, from afar.

A privileged few are free to enjoy it, without stirring from the comfort of their sofas and sun loungers.

Off the port, the navigators of tomorrow hone their skills. To the accompaniment of joyful shrieks.