Zen Again 27

 Stargazer drops anchor, in the (relatively) smooth water, behind La Dent reef. Before the hougue (Naploeonic fort), on Ile de Tatihou. Waiting for enough depth, to enter the shelter of the harbour. For she has shaved three hours off our expected passage time.

In Le Havre, Queen Mary ll had departed, with a pharaonic lowing of horns and spouting of water cannon.

Stargazer's departure is more understated. Loitering off the the harbour entrance, at the behest of Port Control, as a Panamax container ship is swung, end for end, within the confines of the channel. With the aid of two, deftly handled, tugs.

A 'night breeze' still holds sway. Adding some south, to the east of the gradient wind. Stargazer ghosts, wing on wing, north west. Off the rhumb line, but hoping to get into a stronger flow, north of Cap de la Heve.

The, sun powered, sea breeze begins to ruffle the cobalt blue water. Bringing the wind north of east. Stargazer hoists the cruising chute. Broad reaching west, along the rhumb line.

At a stately three to four knots, over the ground. For we are at the height of a spring tide. Which, at the moment, is running against us. The sea breeze builds steadily, from Stargazer's starboard quarter. I eat lunch, whilst the living is level and the motion is easy.

An hour later, Stargazer is foaming along, in twenty knots of breeze. Kite down, jib out, tide on the turn. In her element.

Making eight knots over the ground. Nine and ten, on the surfs. In a building swell.

Which, as well as swiftly carrying Stargazer to her destination, drives directly into the bay. At the head of which, shelter lies behind harbour walls.

My calculations say that, by 21.25 (CET), there will be enough water, for Stargazer to gain the lee, of the outer mole. We tip toe in, eyes on the depth gauge, as the sun sets. Beyond the breakwater,  the red and green lights, of the inner harbour entrance, beckon. A narrow vertical beam, of yellow light, appears between them. It broadens. The gates are opening early. Admitting Stargazer to the calm haven, of Saint Vaast la Hougue.

Zen Again 26

 

Calm and balmy conditions, bring Stargazer's skipper out into her cockpit, to enjoy breakfast and supper. Lunch is more comfortably eaten below, out of the glare of the midday sun. In this most exotic April.

Overnight, a Class40  race boat arrives. Ahead of the CIC Normandy Channel Race. I take a close look at her dyneema rigging. The backstays in particular. Then call Alan, at Wilkinsons, back in Faversham Creek.

Before taking the plunge, and turning DIY rigger, for a day. My first step is to take the load off Stargazer’s backstay. Using a cantilever of main halyard, boom and kicking strap. Tensioned by a winch.

I lower the suspect wire bridle to the deck. The eye has an ominous 'set' to it. Exiting the ferrule awkwardly. It cannot be relied upon.

Following the Class40's method, and Alan's advice, I rig Stargazer a new backstay bridle, using my 5mm dyneema. But do not quite have the heart to chop down the old wire bridle. Leaving it lashed to the rail. Pending sea trials.

Each day, a sea breeze pipes up during the mid afternoon. Bringing the fledgling Charlie Dalin's, of tomorrow, racing home.

Short tacking through the confines, wind shifts and marine traffic of the inner harbour. Honing their boat handling skills.

Tomorrow's forecast is for twelve, increasing to eighteen, knots of east north easterly breeze. On the last (just about) daylight, evening, opening (21.44 CET) of the St Vaast lock, for this lunar cycle. 

Zen Again 25

 

The pilots and the tugs dance to the tune of the mighty merchant ships, Sunday or no.

Choreographed by the laconic vhf voice, of Port Control. Eagle eyed, in their eyrie.

In the port de plaisance, northern european swallows alight. Resting, on their summer migration, south. Belgians, Germans, Dutch, Finns, Poles and Brits flock. 

On shore leave. Stretching their legs along the riverside boulevard. Watching the Seine empty into the sea.

Taking stock, from beneath the shade of a tree. Eyes and ears alert, for a fair tide and a following breeze.

Zen Again 24

 

Whilst Stargazer wafted west, along the Cote d'Alabatre, yesterday, her skipper’s mind returned to the halyard snap (Zen Again 6 & 7). My eye caught by the backstay tensioner. Which, like the jib halyard, terminates with a wire eye splice; which, like the jib halyard’s, pulls into the sheave. Placing a side load on the wire, where it exits the ferrule. As a temporary expedient I harden in, on the tensioner (which adds mast bend and flattens the mainsail), to straighten the exit, of the wire from the ferrule, as much as possible. Perched on the boom end, I also find that I am able to reach high enough, to thread a 'safety line' (gold rope). Just in case.

Fine tuning mast bend is a secondary role for the backstay. Its main function is to hold the mast up. In conjunction with the forestay and shrouds. (Inset, top right of diagram). On Stargazer, the backstay splits twice, between masthead and deck. (Main diagram). Were any part of this assembly to fail, whilst under sail, only a combination of luck and swift action would save the rig. Prevention, of failure, being much the preferable option.

Fortunately, Le Havre, home town of Vendee Globe winner Charlie Dalin, is a hotbed of racing activity. Amongst performance sailors, Dyneema is de riguer. Dyneema is a high-tech textile rope, lighter and stronger than steel wire. Like any rope, it can be knotted to form a loop. Making it a useful, if specialist, material for a DIY rigger. 

Accastillage Diffusion, on the waterfront, have Dyneema in stock. I select 5mm. The diameter of the gold safety rope, which I know to fit the sheave. The Dyneema has a breaking strain of 2.7 tonnes, to the gold rope's 0.5 tonnes. Should the wire eye fail, Stargazer has a robust backup rigged. Which makes her skipper feel more at ease.

Zen Again 23

 

The last gasps, of a sea breeze exhausted from an energetic day, carry Stargazer to the Le Havre beach front.

We made a leisurely start, from Dieppe. Three hours before the turn of the tide. Anglers already manning the pier head.

We tuck in close, beneath the tall cliffs, out of the last of the adverse easterly flow. The day is undecided on which outfit to don. Misty or clear. Bright or dull. All combinations are tried, through the morning.

The breeze is more resolute: Easterly veering north easterly. Ten knots building to fifteen. With a fair tide beneath her, Stargazer slips west. Making better than seven knots. Jib and main, wing and wing.

The sculptural sea caves, stacks and arches, of this stretch of the coast, pass whilst the day is flirting with a 'dark and smouldering' look.

But, by mid afternoon, it has settled upon 'sunny and bright.' In time for Cap d'Antifer.

Stargazer gybes. Loping over the gentlest of swells. Broad reaching south. . . .

. . . .to Cap de la Heve. A mile off the harbour entrance. With our fair tide about to turn, Stargazer stands close in, dodging pot markers, to pick up a favourable eddy.

Zen Again 22

 

Originally, I selected Masson's purely on the basis of its perpetual queue. Which snakes out of the bakery, across the pavement, throughout opening hours. Each year since, I have sought it out, for my first, oven warm, Baguette de Tradition Francaise (coloquially, 'Une Tradition') of the season. Crackling and crisp, of crust; a magical juxtaposition, of tearable and tender, within.

The shop is set amid the weather beaten facades, of the church square.

Where, today, it is market day. The roads are closed to traffic and set about with stalls. Offering fruit, fish (fresh from the Dieppe trawlers) and cheeses, in the main. Wares are examined with discernment. The pace is leisurely. The service both personal and personable. An antidote, to the march of the speedy, but soulless, supermarket self-scan checkout.

Market goers and traders alike are wrapped warmly. For the breeze is round into the north, carrying a chill once more. Tomorrow, it is forecast to veer, north east. Offering the prospect of downwind conditions, to vessels bound west.

Zen Again 21

 

An overnight thunder storm leaves the air tingling fresh; colours, around the quayside, vibrant.

It is a fifteen minute stroll, around the harbour, to Dieppe's ferry station.

Where the most informal, of border crossing formalities, are completed. The duty officer stamping Stargazer's skipper into Schengen, for the summer.

Zen Again 20

 

Only the sight, of the Dieppe skyline, persuades me that I have not dreamt Stargazer's passage today. Such was its perfection.

Daybreak sees us off Beachy Head. Making just shy of five knots.

Cruising chute at the ready, we scent the true wind strength, clear of the mighty headland.

Hoisting, as we head into the shipping lanes. Making better than six knots.

With bursts of eight, as the mid morning breeze fills in. Powered by the warmth of the spring sunshine.

A chuckling wake peels from Stargazer's quarter, as she surfs the swells.

Seven Sisters, the Newhaven to Dieppe ferry, rumbles by. Both of us steering up-tide of our destination. For the stream will be fierce, in the final approaches.

A grey smudge, on the horizon, resolves into the Cote d'Alabatre.

In Dieppe, the harbour staff have been watching Stargazer's speedy crossing, on AIS. Recognising her, as a regular visitor, they come down to greet us. "Bienvenue, a nouveau.......Dix heures, c'est tres rapide."