Zen Again 166

 Stargazer makes her stately way home. Slipping west, past the open East Coast horizons of the Swale, toward the Medway.  Borne by the flood tide and the dying embers of ‘our’ breeze.

The previous day, a Yorkshireman, a Dutchman (out of shot) and Stargazer's skipper, from Kent, assembled in the five o'clock Sovereign Harbour lock. Three thirty footers with their eyes set upon a home run. With a forty eight hour weather window before them. Bound for Hull, Hansweert and Chatham respectively.

Soon, the sun pulls aside grey curtains, of cloud, to dispel the darkness and peer out at a new day.

Stargazer lopes over a long low swell, twelve knots of breeze on the beam. The three little ships forge their way steadily east across Pevensey Bay. Fanning out, as each skipper follows their own version of the rhumb line.

We are drawn onward by a glinting crock of gold on the horizon. 

The Dutchman is hampered, by a need to use his jib halyard to hold up his mast. Instead of to hoist his genoa. His inner forestay having failed, during the hectic conditions of his arrival, in Eastbourne. Leaving him with the unenviable choice of either limping, under main only, or motor-sailing. Which he alternates. True sailor at heart.

The Yorkshireman's Jeanneau proves a tougher nut to crack. Until the breeze backs south easterly and rises to sixteen knots. When Stargazer's low slung lead keel comes into its own.

Stargazer strides off across Ryde Bay, leaving the Jeanneau dwindling astern.

Stargazer seeks the first signs, of the distinctive square Dungeness turbine towers, on the skyline. Whilst her skipper enjoys a hot crossed bun elevenses, in the cockpit. To celebrate the tide turning in our favour. Stargazer now making better than six knots. Spray licking her leeward decks.

Wind and tide whistle us past the tip of the great shingle spur.

Where we bear off for Dover. The white cliffs already visible. Stargazer’s kite is hoisted, to hasten progress. For, as the tide strengthens the wind (as forecast) is weakening.

Stargazer dives down toward the Dover docks. Where the Dutchman, later (as seen on AIS), diverts for the night. Slowed by his crippled rig; and too late on this tide to gainfully continue.

Whereas Stargazer still has three hours of fair tide before her. We ride it, past the South Foreland, Deal and Pegwell Bay.

Stargazer puts into Ramsgate for the night. By dusk, the Jeanneau joins us. Showing true Yorkshire grit, her skipper takes a short nap. Before a two o'clock departure, with the next Channel tide north. Stargazer has an easier time of it. The Thames tide turns at ten tomorrow. Affording her softer southern skipper a full night's sleep. Much needed.

Stargazer follows the morning dogwalkers, along the under cliff. Cheating the Channel tide, which flows against us.

We stay in close, up to Broadstairs. Hugging the beach, off which Ted Heath (the man who brought Britain into Europe) once sailed his Fireball dinghy. Before graduating to Morning Cloud glory.

Off the North Foreland, merchantmen begin to swing at their anchors. Indicating that the tide is about to turn in Stargazer's favour.

We shall need its assistance. Today's breeze is fair, but fitfull and light. And too far forward for the kite to draw. Stargazer ambles west, into the Thames estuary.

Gradually, the chalk cliffs and shingle beaches, of Margate, give way to. . . . .

. . . . . rolling green Kentish countryside, at Reculver.

Out to starboard, beyond the Whitstable windfarm, the London River bustles about its cargo carrying business.

Cindy the sailmaker, heading for the Swale aboard her cat-ketch, welcomes Stargazer back to home waters. Snapping our portrait as she passes. A gift for which we thank her!