Dandelion 72

 

A long horn blast shatters the stillness. As the first vedette of the day rumbles out to sea. Stargazer following close behind.

A mass exodus, of north-bound sailing craft, is on. For, this morning, the wind is in the west. Stargazer wastes no time, in overtaking the boat ahead. A thirty two foot Hunter Legend.

These are the conditions she loves: sixteen knots over the deck. All white sail set. Making just over seven knots, with a little tidal assistance.

Out to the northwest, an uncharted platform shows on the horizon. It looks as if the wind farm, off Houat, is being extended. I drop some markers, into the plotter. To serve, until an update is issued.

Stargazer takes her shortcut, inside Les Boeufs, off the tip of Noirmoutier.

Turning ninety degrees, to dip down into the Baie de Bourgneuf. Surfing on the swell. Making for a gap in the reef. Located by a top-mark, known as 'Notre-Dame.'

From there, it is a dead run in. Whilst Stargazer's deck is steadied by her mainsail, I ready lines and fenders.

For our entry, into the Breton port of Pornic

Dandelion 71

 

The fifty strong fleet, of the Vendee Ports Race for Cruisers, arrives on the Ile d'Yeu. En masse. A rip roaring north wind at its tail.

"Welcome to the Hotel California. . . ." 

The reason, for restricting the exit of boats, becomes clear. As the competitors manoeuvre in the narrow entrance and fairway. Only one way traffic is possible. This afternoon, Port Joinville. . . .

 ". . . .is programmed to receive. You can check out any time you like, but you can never leave."

Most swing, before reversing onto the long reception pontoon (of Stargazer’s arrival night). A companion is swiftly directed to raft alongside. The operation controlled, from shoreside, by a swift moving matriarch, in striped top and ochre trousers.

". . . . she lit up a candle and she showed (them) the way."

Once secured, the crews sit back in their cockpits. To relive their wild ride south, from Noirmoutier, over an ‘apero.’ 

"They're living it up at the Hotel California. . . . the pink champagne on ice."

Stargazer has a ringside seat. Tucked away on 'cruisers row,' where we (few) remaining visitors, from further afield, have congregated.

"Plenty of room at the Hotel California. . . . Such a lovely place."

Credits

'Hotel California' by Don Henley, Glen Frey and Don Felder. 1976.

Dandelion 70

 

The waves roll in from Newfoundland. Bursting high against the southern shore of the Ile d’Yeu.

Where I picinic beneath a granite tor. Out of the reach of the north wind.

Below me, a sun trap cove. Man Friday footsteps imprinted, upon its golden sands.

It nestles within the sweep of a larger bay. Bitten into the cliffs. An appetiser, for the gnawing hunger, of the Atlantic ocean. From the centre of the island, Le Grand Phare (lighthouse) stands watch.

Heathland runs to the cliff edge, on this side of Yeu. A coastal path following its indentations. Dropping onto the beach, from time to time, to cross clefts, before clambering aloft once more.

Birdsong mingles with the crash of waves. On this remote and rugged corner of the isle. The air clear and fresh. Thoughts free to roam.