Ad Lib 126

 

Sheets and sails hang limp. Smoke, from the skipper's roll up, rises vertically. As a Breton lugger silently leaves her berth. 

Once the impetus, of a stout parting shove, is lost progress slows. No zephyr stirs. The tide hangs, on the turn. A sculling sweep is vigorously plied.

Imparting sufficient way to clear Alexia's two trimarans:

The Ultim IDEC Sport (see Ad Lib 125) and her smaller, rapier bowed, MOD 70 training boat.

The lugger pounces eagerly upon a catspaw of breeze. Her sails fill. The black hull heels, swiftly gathering momentum.

She scampers for arches of L'Elorn bridge. Making for the wooded meanders, which lie upstream.

Ad Lib 125

 

In the end (see Ad Lib 124) Stargazer makes her landfall before sunset. Securing beside Alexia Barrier's Ultim IDEC Sport. Freshly relaunched after a pre Route du Rhum refit.

 Dawn was a fiery glow below the horizon. When we left Loctudy, with the fishing fleet.

The cruising chute is swiftly deployed, to harness a promising easterly breeze.

As Stargazer slaloms the craggy pinnacles which stud our shortest route.

To the Pointe de Penmarc'h.

Whose troupe of playful and acrobatic dolphins circle and leap. After a few futile attempts at photography, Stargazer's skipper resolves to sit back and enjoy their company.

The twin towers, guardians of Penmarc’h, dwindle astern. Until they are mere matchsticks on the horizon. An unexpected eddy, of fair tide, carrying us deep into Audierne bay.

Stargazer is over two hours ahead of schedule, as she approaches her skipper's decision point. 

We press on through the Raz de Sein. With several hours of foul tide to push (because our early arrival) in this notoriously fast flowing strait. Stargazer's ground speed drops below two knots.

Inch by inch Stargazer ekes her way through. Finally bringing La Vieille abeam. Slowly gathering way once more. Dragging herself free from the aquatic quagmire.

We are back up to full cruising speed, as we close the wave pierced, multi-coloured cliffs, of the Crozon.

The wind now on our port quarter, having backed south westerly. Stargazer threads her way through. . . .

. . . .the Toulinguet gap. Gateway to the Rade de Brest.

With the beaches of Moulin Blanc at its head.

Ad Lib 124

 The portents are good. Tomorrow's is a neap tide. Which turns fair, in the Raz de Sein, around five in the afternoon.

The breeze, eleven to sixteen knots, is expected to be from the east. Off the land. Increasing the probability of a smooth sea state.

At an angle, until Stargazer reaches the Raz at any rate, which would allow us to fly the kite. If required, to maintain speed.

South of the Raz, Stargazer's skipper will have a decision to make: Stop in Sainte Evette; or press on, for an overnight landfall in Brest. 

Based upon how our breeze is holding up and Stargazer's rate of progress, during the day.

Ad Lib 123

 

First alongside is Marie Claude. Her quietly spoken skipper soon chatting amiably, to the man from the Capitainerie.

On hand in ‘Le Zodiac’ (this one an aluminium workboat). As he is for all new arrivals, within the confines of Loctudy's tightly packed, tide-swept pontoons. But with nothing to do, on this occasion. 

Save for admire the tousle-topped master. Who silently guides his cadets to execute the perfect landing. A pointed finger here. A reassuring hand on the shoulder there. A deft nudging of the throttle, at a pivotal moment.

Sister ship, Yseult, is not far behind. Her crew, mustered on the foredeck, are soon sweating in her docklines.

Before taking a moment to savour their sylvan surroundings. As they make the sweeping teak decks shipshape.

Minstrel completes the trio. Smaller in stature. Yet no less striking, with her brightwork aglow in the afternoon sun.

Good News, so the saying goes, Comes In Threes

Ad Lib 122

 

Full pelt, is the only speed which a fisherman knows. Hurrying home with the catch.

Slow and stealthy, is the style of a dappled grey heron. Which stalks the silvery low tide shallows.

By morning, Loctudy's beaches are deserted. Their sands warming in the sun.

Come afternoon, a sea breeze fills in. Rainbow sails are hoist. Holiday visitors emerge from their lairs.

Each choosing a tempo to suit their circumstances.

Ad Lib 121

Black clouds boil, above the Perdrix. Shafts of piercing clear sunlight lance through the gaps between. Earlier, stray spots of rain startled Stargazer's skipper into wakefulness. Bespattering his sleeping face, through the habitually open foredeck hatch.

The brooding day soon brightens. Picking out the pastel painted walls, of the Ile Tudy cottages, with an ethereal intensity.

Tempting tourists to fill the new bull-nosed ferry. Built, from aluminium, to survive the knocks which its trade can inflict. From contact with the sharp toothed granite bottom. Or tideswept concrete land stages. 

The sturdy wooden former fishing boat, with its festoons of fenders, and thick-as-your-forearm planking, now in retirement. (2022 picture)

The weather seems to be reflecting, upon its previous plan to stay westerly for a while. With a view to change.

It is a case of waiting to see what new course it settles upon. In the agreeable surroundings of Loctudy. As the tidal window, for the Raz de Sein, begins to open.

Ad Lib 120

 

Gitana 18 is making twice windspeed, when she passes Stargazer off Groix.

An impressive feat given that she is downwind (which reduces her apparent wind). Her foils are raised to reduce drag. The breeze in question is a fitful three to four knots. 

As the sun rose, Stargazer motored past Port Louis citadel, in millpond coditions. On the promise of a sea breeze by mid morning.

We shave all the corners that we can. To shorten our route.

Slipping out of Lorient by the side door.

Off Doelan, the forecast fair wind duly arrives.

To carry Stargazer past the beaches of the Iles de Glenan.

On by the chequerboard Perdrix and into Loctudy. From where our course lies (mainly) north. Meaning that the anticipated week of westerlies will be favourable.