Ad Lib 59

Softly, Camaret stirs to life, on a sleepy summer's morning. Sun canopies are unfurled, to shade cafe terraces. Sails are hoisted, in hope of a sea breeze. Gin clear waters sparkle.

 At the head of the harbour, the decommissioned sardine fleet contrives to continue the outdoor art installation theme. Which was started by the sculptural rock formations of Toulinguet (Ad Lib 58).  With slightly more patina, slightly less paint, each season. In a process more resembling ripening than decay.

With the mellowed brickwork of Vauban's multifaceted tower as a backdrop. Its ornate architectural form belying a bellicose defensive function. (Deterring Nelson's Navy and other unwelcome guests, during the great age of sail.)

Soon, Stargazer's flags begin to stream. As the wind rouses itself to action. By midday it is innocently whistling, whilst surreptitiously backing from west to southwest, and building swiftly.

Beyond the breakwater, a scarcely perceived swell builds, in the Anse de Brest. Fully revealing its presence only when it encounters the slowly shelving beach sands.

Signalling that a substantial blow is marching toward Stargazer, from seaward.

Ad Lib 58

 

Stargazer arrives early for an annual reunion with Liz. As we affectionately know the Liz Ven west cardinal buoy. Waiting, demurely, off the Ile Vierge reefs, chaperoned by a lofty lighthouse.

It is Liz's lot to bob in the omnipresent swell. Whatever the weather. Directing passage-making sailors safely around turn, at northern corner of Finistere. (Liz is stationed near 'A,' on yesterday's chart).

This morning, Stargazer left Roscoff, as the fishing fleet returned with their catch.

Hoisted her cruising chute, once clear of the hazards of Ile de Batz. Ten knots of northerly breeze on her quarter. The west going tide begining to run.

Her lunch date with Liz swiftly becomes a mid morning coffee break. Stargazer points her bows south, with two hours of beneficial tide before her. Eager to press on, whilst circumstances suit. The breeze now, obligingly, in the north west.

To arrive at the feet of the Le Four light. Where we loiter for a while. With three hours of foul tide to fight. The breeze assisting, as best it can, by backing further west. To give a faster angle.

Stargazer tip toes, at two knots, to the top of the Chenal du Four. Heading inshore, toward green fields and golden beaches (far left of picture). To dodge the worst of the fierce north going flow.

By tea time the tide is turning.

Soon speeding Stargazer on her way south once more. Sweeping us past Le Conquet.

 Such is the scenic reward, Stargazer holds to her shore hugging course. Which also shortens our turn, into the Anse de Brest, beneath Pointe Saint Mathieu.

Stargazer scents her landfall. Romping across rippled indigo waters, toward the kaleidoscope cliffs of the Crozon. Cruising chute handed. Reaching in a rising sea breeze, making six knots.

We sweep past the gallery of wave sculpted stacks, arches and pinnacles in the Toulinguet Gap. To secure in Camaret. One step away, from the Kingdom of Summer, which lies to the south of the Raz de Sein.

Ad Lib 57

 

. . . . .One day later (see Ad Lib 56). . . . .this is Plan B. In line with Saturday's revised forecast.

Which has the wind backing from north to west during the late afternoon and early evening. Then remaining in the west or southwest for the foreseeable future.

If Stargazer can turn the corner, between L'Aber Wrac'h (A) and the Le Four light (F), in synch with the breeze swinging, her wind will stay fair. The tide too, for a reasonable portion of the passage. Most importantly, in the fastest flowing sections: from Ile de Batz (I) to L’Aber Wrac’h and in the Chenal du Four itself. (Green arrows show fair tide. Red show foul.)

Stargazer will be off the Ile de Batz to catch the turn of the west going tide. With the option to divert into L'Aber Wrac'h, should circumstances change once more. Albeit at the risk of being parked up for some while. Hoping, instead, to make Camaret (C) by nightfall.

Picture Credits

Chart screenshot courtesy of Garmin Navionics app.

Ad Lib 56

 

Before Stargazer's skipper can sample the scenic delights of his surroundings, certain formalities must be observed.

A short stroll away, at the ferry terminal. Where the EES (Schengen Entry & Exit System) awaits. Subject of lurid scare stories, concerning airport delays, missed boardings and gridlock in the streets of Dover. It takes a full sixty seconds to scan my passport, snap my photograph and sample my fingerprints. Roscoff has seemingly perfected the new system's operation.

The sun symbolically disperses a thin veil of cloud. I am free to wander France. My footsteps naturally follow the footpath to the Vieux Port. There to purchase my first 'Tradition' of the season. (Baguette de Tradition Francais - legally mandated to be wholly produced on the premises. Using only flour, salt, water, plus [optionally and rarely] yeast). Along with a small wheel of ripe Camembert, and some plump full flavoured tomatoes, with which to fill it.

Over lunch, I study the Meteo Consult weather outlook. Sailing conditions will soon resume. With cooperative tide times to support them. The latter critical off this rugged corner of Finistere.

 Stargazer will need to move swiftly, once the breeze returns on Saturday. Making a passage to L'Aber Wrac'h, before it turns westerly (a headwind Roscoff to L'Aber Wrac'h) on Sunday. Pit stopping overnight. Before pressing on to Camaret. There to ride out a hard, three or four day, south westerly blow. Under the lee of the Crozon peninsula. With shelter for Stargazer and shoreside diversions for her skipper. We shall call this Plan A.

Ad Lib 55

 

By dawn, Stargazer and her skipper are back amid the craggy granite of Breizh (Brittany). Where they belong. The sun's first rays striking the Triagoz reef tower, up to starboard..

To port, Les Sept Iles are shrouded in a smokey veil of morning mist. Stargazer slips through the channel between the two. Glad of full daylight for the manoeuvre.

The Vent Nocturne has served us well. Greeting Stargazer, and a fellow traveller, off the southern shore of Guernsey yesterday evening.

Gently ushering us into a sunset. . . . .

. . . .of burnished, beaten copper.

An almost full moon is with us through the night. Silhouetting dolphins as they bound along its silver path, beside Stargazer. Accompanied by soft breathy exhalations and playful splashes. Overhead, stars swirl, in their infinite profusion.

Until extinguished by a brightening, from beneath the horizon.

The sun is preparing to rise once more. Gilding Stargazer's sails with its glow.

Climbing steadily into the sky. Overwhelming the Vent Nocturne with its thermal power.

Stargazer steals into Roscoff. Borne on the last faltering breaths, of our night breeze.

Ad Lib 54

 Slowly, slowly, a breeze begins to build. By midday, it is sufficient  to send a French frigate skimming across. . . .

. . . .the St Peter Port paddling pond. Usually the preserve of pre-school Optimist sailors practicing their skills.

The forecast's prediction, of a passage-making easterly, by evening, had strained credulity in the early morning stillness. With Stargazer's shade awnings hanging motionless.

Hopes rise with the first zephyrs. Stargazer crosses the cill, into the outer harbour, as soon as there is the depth to do so. On the promise of a thermal ‘Vent Nocturne.’ To carry us to the Breizh (Breton) shore, overnight.

Ad Lib 53

 

Rippling roars reverberate around the cliffs of St Peter Port.

Le Val des Terres is closed to traffic, for a Bank Holiday Hill Climb up its steep switchbacks.

 The scent of tyre smoke and high octane fuel mingles in the still air.

Hot metal shimmers in the heat.

Final fettling is completed, in whatever shade can be engineered. 

No detail is overlooked.

Competitors while away the morning. Awaiting their summons to the start line. Eyes seldom straying from the Leader Board.

A cool head proves to be the key. . . .

. . . .to posting a winning time.