Ad Lib 141

 

Treguier returns to its mediaevel roots (see Ad Lib 135) on Market Day. Its streets thronged with hawkers and travellers. Bargains are demonstratively struck. Vendors loudly tout their wares; and their customers respond with equal vehemence.

One seller is momentarily taken aback, by an unusually argumentative client. Seemingly bent on setting the world to rights, rather than on making a purchase.

By and large, would be patrons are keen to make a purchase. Perhaps after savouring a small sample of the goods on offer. Then to move on swiftly.

Along this modern day pilgrim's trail. Which fans out across the flat land atop the riverbank. . . .

. . . .and scrambles up steep cobbled streets. With stallholders seizing the opportunity, of any lull in their brisk trade, for a swift lunchtime snack.

At the hill's summit, two flamenco guitarists strike up. Sitting on the stone flags before the cathedral door. Weaving intricate melodies, tapping toes, eyes locked. Together elevated to a higher musical space. 

An appreciative audience soon forms. Some circle the duo, applauding between numbers. Cobbles defeat several who would dance. Still others, soak up the rhythmic feel-good aura subliminally. Whilst setting about the serious business of shopping, Wicker baskets at the ready.

Ad Lib 140

As a breed, sailors are most particular about their weather. Although far from agreed upon what represent ideal conditions.

Today is, all but, windless. Yet it has suited those who either prefer to motor; or who are forced to do so, by a pressing deadline. Able to make progress in any direction, at a predictable speed, governed only by the tide. Accompanied by a fog of diesel fumes.

Tomorrow, a light south westerly, by morning, gives way to thunderstorms, with their risk of lightning strike. Plus a warning of forty knot gusts from the east, in the afternoon. Which will suit neither sailors nor motor-sailors.

Thursday is shaping up to be similar. But it is too early to be absolutely sure.

By Friday, a passage-making westerly is probable. The vanguard of a stormy weekend. As befits a British August Bank Holiday. The tides, by then nearing springs, running predominantly west during the day. Making a northerly course the most viable option.

Ad Lib 139

 

Strong squalls set the trees swaying. The occasional gust spilling down to set Stargazer straining at her lines.

Like Sir Francis Drake, with his apocryphal Plymouth Hoe bowls game, we must bide our time, until wind and tide serve our purpose.

Whilst taking full advantage of the services on offer from both a nearby laundrette and a supermarket.

Ad Lib 138

 

Treguier boasts three bridges for its two rivers (see Ad Lib 135)

Immediately upstream of the marina, are the sturdy stone arches of Le Pont Canada. Minus the original central swinging section. Sabotaged, to impede the nazi invader, during World War ll. Now the preserve of anglers.

It was replaced, in the fifties, by a fixed span. To carry both foot and road traffic across the Jaudy.

Whilst the Guindy's bridge is a pedestrian only affair.

Which caters for hikers. Following the trail which runs along wooded banks. In part following the bed of the former rail link to Paimpol and Lannion. To either side of the Presqu' Ile Sauvage (Wild Peninsula).

Ad Lib 137

 

Barely a breeze stirs beneath the high wooded banks of Treguier. Ten nautical miles inland from the granite toothed mouth of the river Jaudy.

Here, the low autumn sun bursts ready risen from the tree tops. Long after daybreak. With a bright-eyed stare. Skipping the soft honey tones of dawn, in its hurry to regain time lost to its lie in.

It casts long shadows as it bolts down a breakfast of dew drops. Which lie scattered across Stargazer's deck, until beyond mid morning. A reminder of the season's march.

Off the coast of Peru, 'the strongest ever recorded El Niño' event has been triggered, by elevated temperatures. Come to colour our weather now and for the next year. Sparking much speculation, in the press, and some consternation amongst seafarers on passage.

Memories of last August’s storm-bound ten day stay in Cherbourg . . . . .

. . . . .quickly followed by an enforced fortnight’s sojourn, in Le Havre, during September, spring to the forefront of Stargazer's skipper's mind.

With the wind in the east, for the weekend, our immediate navigational choices are limited. Particularly with its strength forecast to be on the high side.

Both the Baie de St Malo ports (red route) and the Channel Islands (green route) lie to Stargazer's east. (Stargazer is the blue dot, arrowed in yellow.)

Stargazer's routing decision is a question of watching and waiting. To see how the breeze settles, after the blow is over. Then, of assessing tide timings, relative to daylight hours, at that point. With a wary eye kept on how the long range forecasts are shaping.

Picture Credits

El Nino screenshot; courtesy of BBC News

Baie de Saint Malo basemap; courtesy of Google Maps

Ad Lib 136

 Guirec Soudee has already squeezed a surfeit of sailing achievement into a short space of time. With his next adventure soon to start: November’s Route du Rhum race. (Solo St Malo to Guadeloupe). Aboard an Ultim trimaran, presently moored in Treguier.

The boat is from the same, pre-foiling, era as Alexia Barrier's IDEC Sport (See Ad Lib 125 & 128). Also entered. Guirec spent the winter (southern summer) sailing his hundred foot trimaran the 'wrong’ way around the world. Against wind and current. Setting a record time.

Guirec first caught public attention with video updates chronicling the exploits of Monique. "The Hen Who Sailed Around The World." The proceeds and profile generated, sufficient to mount his 2024 Vendee Globe campaign.

The success, of which venture, enabled Guirec to purchase an Ultim (previously Adagio, before that Sodebo) and to attract MACSF as his title sponsor. 

Small wonder that a steady stream of sailing-sightseers now troop along the Treguier pontoons to see her.

Passing a sign, strung in the dyneema shrouds, seeking their help. To complete the Route du Rhum purse, through sales of 'Yacht Club Monique' memberships.

A funding vehicle which could, later, help to turn another aspiration into reality: An entry to the 2028 Arkea Ultim Challenge. (Solo around the world. The 'right' way. Against a fleet of fellow Ultims)

Picture Credits

Monique overwinters in the ice; courtesy of Guirce-Soudee-Projet

Guirec returns with the round-the-world-envers record; courtesy of Erwan Le Bourdais

Guirec Soudee's Web Site For all things Guirec Soudee. Past, present & future.

Ad Lib 135

 

Treguier maintains something of the air of a mediaeval meeting point. A crossroads at the confluence of the rivers Jaudy and Guindy. Where terrestrial trails bridge their fast flowing waters.

A place of ancient pilgrimage. To the cathedral originally founded by the Welsh monk Saint Tugdual. After fleeing sixth century persecution in his Celtic home land. 

 Its famous sky piercing perforated spire, a later addition, by pious eighteenth monks. Paid for by King Louis. Prior to the Revolution.

As a burgeoning ecclesiastical town blossomed. Spilling down the slopes, of the hilltop, upon which the religious centre is set.

To the mellow meanders and rolling fields below. Their combination conjouring a singular air of serenity.