Ad Lib 85

Stargazer's plan for the day (see Ad Lib 84) swiftly unravels. Before she leaves the dock in L'Herbaudiere.

 Her skipper has failed to factor in the annual Vendee Ports' rally. The fleet are on the Ile d'Yeu today. They will be making for L'Herbaudiere tomorrow. Before attending a prize giving, in Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, the day after.

Port Joinville, on the Ile d'Yeu (pictured during the 2024 event) is therefore closed to new arrivals today. Whilst Saint-Gilles is clearing its berths, in anticipation of the rally, and will not accept arrivals either. In turn, L'Herbaudiere has served notice on all visitors, to leave by eight o'clock tomorrow morning. In readiness for the rally.

Stargazer's best solution seems to be to stay put, in L'Herbaudiere, for today. Before swapping ports with the rally tomorrow. Remaining, on Yeu, until the fleet has dispersed to its home ports. Not for nothing is this styled as our Ad Lib cruise!

Yesterday evening's chance quayside conversation, which revealed this local knowledge, contained a second cruise enhancing nugget. Later confirmed, by Stargazer's skipper, through a low-tide reconnaissance from the beach.

Namely the existence of the Chenal de la Grise, which cuts the corner between the lighthouse and the main island of Noirmoutier. Thus saving a ten mile detour around the perimeter of its outer reefs. An option which Stargazer hopes to explore at high tide tomorrow morning.

Ad Lib 84

 White walls shimmer beneath terracotta tiles which glow like coals. Whilst lofty scots pines cast pools of shade.

African lillies peer over garden fences.

Hollyhocks bloom. . . .

. . . .  in multihued profusion

On the slip, an aging chalutier receives a fresh coat of paint as vibrant as its surroundings.

Tomorrow, Stargazer hopes to repeat her successful courting of the night breeze (See Ad Lib 83). By riding the dawn tide around the twin towers, which guard the Ile de Noirmoutier's southern tip.

Whence lie, a variety of Vendee ports, at ranges to suit whatever wind conditions we find.

Ad Lib 83

 

Confounding the forecasters, and delighting Stargazer's skipper, the elusive breeze has awoken from its six day siesta.

Unexpectedly carrying Stargazer into the sun spangled waters of the Vendee.

Far from petering out by mid morning (see Ad Lib 82) it is with us the full day. Stargazer stands on south. Instead of putting in at one of the cluster of Breton ports around Le Croisic.(Annotated as ‘Croisic Corner,’ on Stargazer’s passage chart.)

The wind is on Stargazer's quarter. Jib just drawing.

We skirt the reef markers and windfarm boundaries to stay on the rhumb line.

Sailing through the row of merchantmen, which are anchored along the 'hard shoulder' of the Loire channel. Queuing for the cranes of the Saint-Nazaire quayside.

To reach the picture postcard shores of the Ile de Noirmoutier.

Stargazer is swiftly squeezed into a space. By the ever resourceful Capitainerie. As a busy summer weekend begins in L'Herbaudiere.

A perenially popular destination: For smartly attired leisure sailors taking their ease, from stressful shorelife, aboard immaculately prepared craft.

As well as for the working fisher folk, whose businesses are based here. That mixture (of work and play), in this setting, proves as heady as the high-octane aroma created by Madame's blowtorch.

Ad Lib 82

 

Tucked into a snug cove, at the entrance to the Golfe du Morbihan, Port Navalo is the calm eye at the centre of a watery vortex. Twice daily, within view of its walls, an urgent incoming tide collides with the Petit Vezid rock (Out of shot, top left, level with tree lined banks). Before rebounding and dividing forces. One phalanx races up the Auray river (visible behind yellow & black cardinal marker). The other forks abruptly right, toward the body of the Inland Sea (at green tower). The scale of the stone markers testify to the forces which they must withstand.

For boats transiting the bottleneck mouth, the ride is always fast and sometimes (as on Stargazer's entry, see Ad Lib 74) furious. A well trod cliff path winds above the sailors as they pass. With benches, set beneath shady trees, from which ambling onlookers are able to spectate.

Near to the head of the Auray river, in the rustic peace of Le Bono's churchyard, the bones of Eric Tabarly rest. After a lifetime of pioneering ocean voyaging, aboard his various Pen Duick's. Making it a place of sailing pilgrimage. The tradition being to leave a seashell, on the drystone wall beside his simple headstone.

The cliff path follows a small headland round to the seaward facing side of Port Navalo. Where a shimmering silver sand beach dips its toes in cooling indigo waters.

The heatwave high-pressure brings light winds to Quiberon Bay. Once the sun sets, however, a usable night breeze has set in for the past couple of days. Stargazer plans to set out early tomorrow, to see where it may carry us.

Ad Lib 81

 

Glassy seas greet Stargazer's skipper. Taking the morning air, by the harbour entrance.

A path clambers up a steep hillside. Through dense shoulder high scrub. Heavy with peeping wildflowers, ripening berries and shimmering with flitting butterflies.

Until it reaches the clifftop. Where the mysterious stone building civilisation has left its calling card. In the form of a terraced, drystone walled tumulus, containing chambers within. 

Known as the Petit Mont, the site covers over an acre. Purpose, open to speculation. As is its precise method of construction. Although sledges are suggested to have been used to carry the architectural stone.

It is sited to dominate the skyline, on the approaches to the Golfe du Morbihan (red stone marker, top left). Looking out across Quiberon Bay.

Ad Lib 80

 

Stargazer sets sail in search of a cooling breeze. As the shelter, in Vannes, proves too complete to be comfortable, in the Saharan heatwave conditions.

Desert islands slip by. Robinson Crusoe picnickers seeking out the shade of their tall Scots Pines.

Swimmers gleefully plunge from slipways.

Whilst moored boats wait for their summer-season-owners. Before high walls, surrounding the manicured grounds of grand houses.

All hands turn out on deck to sweat up the heavy gaff of a pilot cutter.

Today's neap tide treats Stargazer more gently, in the narrows, than did the boisterous spring of our entry. 

Stargazer gurgles out of the Golfe du Morbihan. Making a sedate (for the waters off Port Navalo) seven knots. We secure shortly after, in Crouesty, to consider our next move. 

Ad Lib 79

 

Rumours of an alcohol ban, in light of extreme heat levels, prove unfounded. With refreshingly cold lager served, in reusable plastic ‘glasses,’ to those on the hoof.

Whilst patrons seated before the overflowing bars and bistros, sip wine from bottles plunged into ice filled coolers.

Not that alcohol is required in order to enjoy the Fete de la Musique. Families turn the crowded quayside into an impromptu picnic table. To take their evening meals.

Snacking from street food stalls. Which have sprung up on the closed-to-traffic-carriageways of the Vannes harbourside and Old Town.

Almost every cafe has a live act performing. Music, of every genre, mingles in the Midsummer air.

 Complementing the main event, on a stage behind Stargazer. Where the sets share Celtic roots.

Usually with an edgy, electronic twist. For the twenty first century.

The repertoire a reminder of the ancient cultural bonds between Breizh (Brittany), Cymru (Wales), Eire (Ireland) and Kernow (Cornwall).