Ad Lib 105

It was no Saturday evening club race, which Stargazer stumbled into last night. (See Ad Lib 104.)

But a J-Cup match racing championship. Held in  J-80's. Built, by J-Composites, in the home of the Vendée Globe, Les Sables d'Olonne.

Which explains why the start line was laid across the marina entrance: The better for shoreside spectators to enjoy the weekend-long spectacle.

Which is fast and furious. As the final elimination rounds are fought out through Sunday.

In a blistering twenty five knots, and more, of breeze.

Much to the delight of the J-Crews and their supporters.

RIB riding on the water referees ensure that, whilst the battle may be ferocious, it is scrupulously fair.

With umpires stationed strategically at the turning marks. 

And straining to keep pace, with the flying J’s, on the full throttle downwind sectors.

Ad Lib 104

 

Flushed with the success, of shooting the pass in Pornichet's outer reef, at seven knots on a thundering broad reach, Stargazer's jubilant skipper is brought down to earth. By the sight of a race fleet coming up fast from astern. Causing him to realise that the two buoys ahead are not newly laid channel marks, but their finish line.

Stargazer left Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie heartened to discover that the forecast has improved overnight. The predicted strength is increased, from a marginal eight knots, to a properly-powered-up twelve becoming sixteen. A good day's sailing is in prospect!

Wind direction remains north easterly for the morning. Backing to north westerly by afternoon. Meaning that Stargazer will potentially be on a 'fetch' (wind angle sixty to seventy degrees) all day. One of Stargazer's fastest points of sail. Particularly in winds below fourteen knots. Due to the fact that sailing slightly into the wind boosts its strength.

Stargazer sails steadily north west, through the morning. Hugging the shallows. Both to shorten her course and to stay out of the south going tide.

By lunchtime the twin towers, at the tip of  the Ile de Noirmoutier, are in sight. They remain so for an hour. Whilst the wind takes a siesta and the tide slowly turns in our favour. Soon the breeze is back. From the northwest. 

It is time for Stargazer to tack north, for the mouth of the Loire. Toward which the tide is also rushing. Pushing aside the anchored shipping, in its headlong hurry. Mutely, the leviathans swing on their heavy chains.

The pass, in Pornichet's reef, was a new discovery last year. Which we cautiously explored under reduced sail. Confident in our waypoints, today we whistle through at full bore. Before putting in a swift series of gybes to clear the J-Boat fleet. In whose midst we have appeared.

Before us, the beach resort of Pornichet. Stargazer is back in Breizh (Brittany)

Ad Lib 103

 

Stargazer must leave town. If not on the next train, then on the morning tide.

Or face the perils of the Ponton Visiteurs. On a high season Saturday evening at springs. 

Which can, all to easily, degenerate into something akin to a tidally assisted ‘demolition derby.’ Once the white knights of 'Le Zodiac' (that, confusingly, is not a Zodiac at all) have gone home.

The owner of the finger berth, which Stargazer has been borrowing, is hurrying home early.

This news causes Stargazer's skipper some consternation. For, on a Saturday night in summer, both the local boats (of working folk) and we, in the cruising contingent, compete for places in port. 

Particularly on the popular Vendeean sunshine coast. Stargazer, therefore, generally opts to stay put mid-weekend.

To meet the current situation, Stargazer’s Ad Lib strategy will be to beat a retreat to Breizh (Brittany). Targeting the harbours from which the Vendee visitors have originated.

Ad Lib 102

 

The location, of the Groupe Beneteau headquarters building, says much about the importance of the Beneteau family business to the economy of Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie.

Sitting, as it does, centre stage on Boisvinet beach at the harbour mouth. Enjoying sea views south to the Ile de Re. Built in the style of a contemporary colonnaded villa.

In 1884, the success of the local sardine fishery prompted Benjamin Beneteau to start building trawlers. His company prospered. Recognising early the opportunities of a nascent 1960’s leisure market.

Much as the Ford Motor Company had done for the car industry, Groupe Beneteau applied the principles of mass production to boat building. Their prices and designs attracting a broad customer base, previously unable to aspire to ownership. 

The parallels, between the two pioneers within their respective sectors, do not end there:

 Bread and butter models necessarily tend toward the pedestrian, rather than aiming to set pulses racing. However, where the Ford Motor Company spawned and nurtured the mighty Mustang; Groupe Beneteau begat and evolved the fabled Figaro. (See Ad Lib 63)

Where 'sensible shoes' Ford harboured the radical, everyman-road-racer, RS division (RIP); Beneteau has its 'First' sub-brand. Revived from a corporate-coma by the purchase of the Slovenian Seascape yard. Who have, in quick succession, raised sailors’ heart rates with the First 36 (pictured) and the First 30. 

The Firsts are simple (relatively) affordable designs, hungry to eat the lunch of the specialist Breton performance yards: Pogo and JPK. Their populist mission is to put speed induced smiles on the faces of as many sailors as possible. Through the reinvention of the Cruiser-Racer. The hot hatch of the seas. Missing in action since the early noughties. 

Both designs are from the board of Sam Manuard. Whose Pogo RC has been shaking up the offshore world, often with its creator at the helm (fist raised, big smile, claiming line honours in the Cap Martinique).  The man who brought the scow bow to the IMOCA class, with Armel Tripon's L'Occitane. And whose Mach40 designs are the ones to beat in the competitive Class40 fleet.

Stargazer's skipper hopes to investigate the First 36 further. Following an open invitation, to visit, from Bretons Thomas and Hugo. Who sail out of  the epicentre of French short handed racing, Lorient La Base. 

Picture Credits

1964 Ford Mustang advert; courtesy of Ford Motor Co.

Beneteau Figaro, First 36 under sail, First 36 interior; courtesy of Groupe Beneteau

Sam Manuard, first across the line in the Cap Martinique; courtesy of Marc Misillon / Disobey

Thomas & Hugo's First 36;  courtesy of Thomas & Hugo

Ad Lib 101

Although celebration of Le Quatorze continues into the night, it is very much a family affair.

Dancing in the streets starts at Tea Time.

Performed and watched by children of all ages.

The flybridge power boat posse arrive fashionably late to the party. Chilled rosé at the ready.

In Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, festivities begin at the Benjamin Beneteau bandstand. Named after the founder of the eponymous boat building empire. Which remains based here.

By evening, the focus has shifted seaward. A drum troupe sets the beachside boardwalk bouncing, with the pounding base of their Brazilian beat.

Dusk does not dim the revelery. Far from it. Convivial crowds flock to the foreshore.

For, the grand finale firework display is about to commence.

Fountains of multicoloured flame dance above the seawall. Until it is Le Quatorze no more.

Ad Lib 100

 

Strategically placed sun awnings (sailbags and repurposed wall hangings) cast pools of shade in Stargazer's cockpit. Hatches and hull ports are open, to welcome a late afternoon sea breeze. Through which float the strains of a jazz saxophone. Light as gossamer. Snatches, of instantly recognisable standards, are seamlessly interwoven with stretches of pure, summer-filled, improvisation. Breathy and considered.

Through the day, the streets, of Saint-Gilles, have been eerily deserted. For this is Le Quatorze. When France marks the storming of the Bastille. Its birth as a Citizen-State.

Those citizens are currently preparing for a night of festivities and fireworks. To be held upon the quaysides and beaches of the port. And across the Republic.

The sardine trawlers rest alongside, as if it is a Sunday.

Several have been at work overnight, however. Creating a flurry of intense activity at the slipway.

First come are first served. Those furthest down, the snaking queue, are disappointed. Forcing a sudden change in the, long planned, celebratory seafood dinner menu. 

From Saint-Gilles' signature sardine, to Golfe de Gascogne culinary hallmark homard (lobster).

Ad Lib 99

 

 On the Saint-Gilles-sur-Vie bank, Vendeean byways: white walls, terracotta tiled roofs, sun-bleached blue shutters.

With a sharp edged, rough stone, slate roofed, Breton style spire rising from their midst.

 On the opposite shore, Croix-de-Vie. Its church in the Basque style. More organic of form, cooler of colour, smoother of finish.

The two towns have been unified, as Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, since 1967. A frequent recommendation, as a favourite port, by French cruisers. Somewhat shunned by northern European visitors. In favour of nearby Ile d'Yeu and Les Sables d'Olonne.

Perhaps deterred by the notoriety, much amplified in the popular pilot books, of its visitors' pontoon. Which greets arrivals with a six foot sign cautioning 'Attention Courant.' Instead of the customary 'Bienvenue.' It might also add a caveat about depth. This Dragonfly afloat only by dint of raised rudder and centreboard.

Stargazer first visited last year. Receiving special attention then, as now, in the form of the services of 'Le Zodiac' (see Ad Lib 98) and the use of an absent bertholder's deep water pontoon finger. Just out of shot (far right) behind the concrete quayside. Which serves to moderate tidal excesses.