All at Sea with Stargazer
I live by the sea, maybe live for the sea, on an island in the tidal River Medway. Just downstream of the historic Chatham Naval Dockyard - where Nelson's Victory was built. For me the sea is about freedom and exploration - both personal and geographical. Stargazer is a 31' Hallberg-Rassy sloop; and companion on my journey
Thursday, 11 June 2026
Ad Lib 69
Wednesday, 10 June 2026
Ad Lib 68
The black dog's evident excitement, together with its owner’s slightly overwhelmed air, convey something of the Ville Close experience.
Access is via a stocky stone bridge. Which is built narrow and arcing left. To simultaneously defeat a battering ram charge at the gates; and to disadvantage advancing, right handed, swordsmen.
Tuesday, 9 June 2026
Ad Lib 67
Monday, 8 June 2026
Ad Lib 66
Pen Duick V (see Ad Lib 64) skims from crest to crest. Leaping effortlessly, like a silver salmon.
Stargazer and Pen Duick sail shoulder to shoulder, as they thread the Toulinguet gap. The sun, still to rise, softens a steel grey sky with a suffusion of pink.
Hard on the wind, the two small ships thunder south.
Tacking to clear the Tas de Pois.
The day brightens and mellows. Stargazer tacks on.
Making her landfall five nautical miles east of the Pointe du Raz. For which, Pen Duick has already tacked. Crossing a fleet of Classe Mini 6.50 racers, running in to Douarnenez, beneath serrated ramparts of tumbled granite.
Stargazer follows Pen Duick. Out to the wave gnarled tip of the jutting peninsula. A half filled jawbone, in which only the hardiest rock molars survive the ravages of time and tempest.
The two travelling companions tack on. Standing west to Tevennec. The lighthouse which guards the northern outcrops of the, lower lying, Ile de Sein. Where Tom Dolan's Figaro lays beached, at risk of breaking up (see Ad Lib 61 & 63).
The tide is setting Stargazer down on the black silhouette of La Vieille. A residual storm-surge rears high. Finding itself confined between the Pointe du Raz and Ile de Sein. Dashing itself against the stoic stone saviour-of-sailors in frustration.
Sunday, 7 June 2026
Ad Lib 65
In tumultuous chorus the song of wind and surf combine. The tang of salt spray flavours the air.
Heightening the senses. Bringing colours to vivid life.
The full force, of this second gale, becomes evident on cresting the rise in Camaret's coast path.
Where the wind whips in unfettered from the southwest. Over the bulwark of Toulinguet. Across the wild Atlantic Ocean.
Driving, before it, the seas which have hewn the hard Breton granite into fantastical formations.
Underfoot, the path swoops downward. Soon it is possible to stand straight, without stooping and staggering to the gusts. The vegetation reaches shoulder height, becoming softer and more luxuriant.
Stargazer's skipper enters the sun-trap embrace of Porz-Naye's ochre cliffs. Swiftly shedding jacket and jumper. Settling on the shingle beach for lunch.
Saturday, 6 June 2026
Ad Lib 64
A flock of storm birds gathers, in Camaret, as the wind gusts to forty knots.
Two jet black, one maverick grey, Coal Tits. Pen Duick in the Breton tongue. The former fleet of ocean racing pioneer Eric Tabarly (1931-1998). Pen Duick ll is a slim sterned ketch of the 'fish shaped' design school.
Pen Duick lll is of a similar philosophy. But lighter and stiffer. Built to cleave cleanly through the waves.
Pen Duick V is the paradigm shifting, epoch shaper. An all aluminium, ultra lightweight (eschewing even paint), water ballasted (the world's first such) flyer. Built to skim above the surface of the sea. Much imitated and evolved to the present day. By IMOCA's and Class40's, amongst miriad others.
Out in the bay, Daniel Alfredsson's OE32 Pale Blue Dot rides to her anchor. They are putting in their qualification miles, for this year's solo round the world Golden Globe Race (GGR).
Last port of call Soreide Norway. Caught by this succession of gales, in the North Atlantic, they have run direct downwind for Camaret's (relative) respite. Prevented (I suspect) from putting into port by rules which require their passage to be 'unbroken.'
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