Ad Lib 102

 

The location, of the Groupe Beneteau headquarters building, says much about the importance of the Beneteau family business to the economy of Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie.

Sitting, as it does, centre stage on Boisvinet beach at the harbour mouth. Enjoying sea views south to the Ile de Re. Built in the style of a contemporary colonnaded villa.

In 1884, the success of the local sardine fishery prompted Benjamin Beneteau to start building trawlers. His company prospered. Recognising early the opportunities of a nascent 1960’s leisure market.

Much as the Ford Motor Company had done for the car industry, Groupe Beneteau applied the principles of mass production to boat building. Their prices and designs attracting a broad customer base, previously unable to aspire to ownership. 

The parallels, between the two pioneers within their respective sectors, do not end there:

 Bread and butter models necessarily tend toward the pedestrian, rather than aiming to set pulses racing. However, where the Ford Motor Company spawned and nurtured the mighty Mustang; Groupe Beneteau begat and evolved the fabled Figaro. (See Ad Lib 63)

Where 'sensible shoes' Ford harboured the radical, everyman-road-racer, RS division (RIP); Beneteau has its 'First' sub-brand. Revived from a corporate-coma by the purchase of the Solvenian Seascape yard. Who have, in quick succession, raised sailors’ heart rates with the First 36 (pictured) and the First 30. 

The Firsts are simple (relatively) affordable designs, hungry to eat the lunch of the specialist Breton performance yards: Pogo and JPK. Their populist mission is to put speed induced smiles on the faces of as many sailors as possible. Through the reinvention of the Cruiser-Racer. The hot hatch of the seas. Missing in action since the early noughties. 

Both designs are from the board of Sam Manuard. Whose Pogo RC has been shaking up the offshore world, often with its creator at the helm (fist raised, big smile, claiming line honours in the Cap Martinique).  The man who brought the scow bow to the IMOCA class, with Armel Tripon's L'Occitane. And whose Mach40 designs are the ones to beat in the competitive Class40 fleet.

Stargazer's skipper hopes to investigate the First 36 further. Following an open invitation, to visit, from Bretons Thomas and Hugo. Who sail out of  the epicentre of French short handed racing, Lorient La Base. 

Picture Credits

1964 Ford Mustang advert; courtesy of Ford Motor Co.

Beneteau Figaro, First 36 under sail, First 36 interior; courtesy of Groupe Beneteau

Sam Manuard, first across the line in the Cap Martinique; courtesy of Marc Misillon / Disobey

Thomas & Hugo's First 36;  courtesy of Thomas & Hugo

Ad Lib 101

Although celebration of Le Quatorze continues into the night, it is very much a family affair.

Dancing in the streets starts at Tea Time.

Performed and watched by children of all ages.

The flybridge power boat posse arrive fashionably late to the party. Chilled rosé at the ready.

In Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, festivities begin at the Benjamin Beneteau bandstand. Named after the founder of the eponymous boat building empire. Which remains based here.

By evening, the focus has shifted seaward. A drum troupe sets the beachside boardwalk bouncing, with the pounding base of their Brazilian beat.

Dusk does not dim the revelery. Far from it. Convivial crowds flock to the foreshore.

For, the grand finale firework display is about to commence.

Fountains of multicoloured flame dance above the seawall. Until it is Le Quatorze no more.

Ad Lib 100

 

Strategically placed sun awnings (sailbags and repurposed wall hangings) cast pools of shade in Stargazer's cockpit. Hatches and hull ports are open, to welcome a late afternoon sea breeze. Through which float the strains of a jazz saxophone. Light as gossamer. Snatches, of instantly recognisable standards, are seamlessly interwoven with stretches of pure, summer-filled, improvisation. Breathy and considered.

Through the day, the streets, of Saint-Gilles, have been eerily deserted. For this is Le Quatorze. When France marks the storming of the Bastille. Its birth as a Citizen-State.

Those citizens are currently preparing for a night of festivities and fireworks. To be held upon the quaysides and beaches of the port. And across the Republic.

The sardine trawlers rest alongside, as if it is a Sunday.

Several have been at work overnight, however. Creating a flurry of intense activity at the slipway.

First come are first served. Those furthest down, the snaking queue, are disappointed. Forcing a sudden change in the, long planned, celebratory seafood dinner menu. 

From Saint-Gilles' signature sardine, to Golfe de Gascogne culinary hallmark homard (lobster).

Ad Lib 99

 

 On the Saint-Gilles-sur-Vie bank, Vendeean byways: white walls, terracotta tiled roofs, sun-bleached blue shutters.

With a sharp edged, rough stone, slate roofed, Breton style spire rising from their midst.

 On the opposite shore, Croix-de-Vie. Its church in the Basque style. More organic of form, cooler of colour, smoother of finish.

The two towns have been unified, as Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, since 1967. A frequent recommendation, as a favourite port, by French cruisers. Somewhat shunned by northern European visitors. In favour of nearby Ile d'Yeu and Les Sables d'Olonne.

Perhaps deterred by the notoriety, much amplified in the popular pilot books, of its visitors' pontoon. Which greets arrivals with a six foot sign cautioning 'Attention Courant.' Instead of the customary 'Bienvenue.' It might also add a caveat about depth. This Dragonfly afloat only by dint of raised rudder and centreboard.

Stargazer first visited last year. Receiving special attention then, as now, in the form of the services of 'Le Zodiac' (see Ad Lib 98) and the use of an absent bertholder's deep water pontoon finger. Just out of shot (far right) behind the concrete quayside. Which serves to moderate tidal excesses.

Ad Lib 98

 

Stargazer's departure is delayed due to a sustained aerial attack. By a distraught Herring Gull whose bite-sized chick has swum into the open waters of the Port Olona fairway. Stargazer's skipper elects to retreat below. A decision which (narrowly) spares him from a direct hit by a foul smelling faecal deluge.

Several buckets of salt water restore order to, and banish the evil odour from, Stargazer's bespattered cockpit. We set off to greet the returning Classe Mini 6.50 fleet (see Ad Lib 93 & 94) at the pier head.

 Observing their track and adding a new short cut, to the chart plotter, in the process.

Progress is not rapid. But it is carefree and enjoyable. For we have a fair tide and only twenty nautical miles to cover. 

A three knot average will suffice, to bring Stargazer beneath the Pointe de Grosse Terre, shortly before local high water.

When the fierce current, for which the Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie approach channel is renowned, relents for an hour. Making for more relaxed berthing. Particularly when the Capitainerie insist upon sending out 'Le Zodiac' with a crew of skilled line handlers.

Ad Lib 97

 

Les Sables d'Olonne shrinks time. Just as the Vendee Globe records have fallen (see Ad Lib 92), Stargazer's week in port has flown by. Le Quatorze (Bastille Day) will soon be upon us. It is the time, in our annual migration, to turn north.

The faithful Vent Nocturn, which bore Stargazer south, can no longer a helping hand. Now that it has become a headwind.

Fortunately, after a middle of the day stalemate, whilst the Vent Nocturne and Vent Solaire tussle for supremacy, oft as not, a south wind springs up during the afternoon.

Stargazer intends to partially test a Vent Solaire driven strategy tomorrow. Within the constraints of timing our arrival to coincide with high water. For, the tide is not to be trifled with in our next Vendee port of call.

Ad Lib 96

 

Rochelaise Robin Marais has bought, Sablais Manu Cousin's IMOCA (Coup de Pouce in the 2024 Vendee Globe). With his eye to October's Route du Rhum for a first competitive outing.

The boat is a Farr daggerboard design, first launched in 2007, by Jean-Pierre Dick. Racing under Paprec's colours, he was forced to abandon into New Zealand during the 2008 Vendee Globe. After a collision with a UFO (Unidentified Floating Object) left him rudderless.

Robin is a graduate of the Classe Mini 6.50 (see Ad Lib 93 & 94). Cutting his solo offshore teeth on the 2013 Mini Transat.

Before placing eighteenth (out of a fleet of fifty seven), aboard Class40 Ma Chance, in the 2018 Route du Rhum.

The budget to campaign a foiling IMOCA, like those on the victory pontoon ahead of him (see Ad Lib 91), is not currently available. But steady, step-wise, progression is a strategy which has, thus far, served Robin well.

Picture Credits

Robin Marais Route du Rhum 2018 courtesy of Christophe Breschi