Ad Lib 168

 A smooth sea licks at Dover's shingle foreshore. Retreating with a characteristic seething scrunch. 

The waters stirred more by ferry movements than by wind action.

At the head of the beach, an elegantly turned out crescent. With cross Channel views. And sheltered seating upon which to take the sun.

Behind it, "The Wellington" (Dock).

Recently dredged and renovated. A process which has dislodged an accumulation of quietly decaying 'projects.' Raising the tone, whilst leaving much space available along the new pontoons.

Beyond it, beats the tarmac artery of the town. A dual carriageway which beats in time to ferry arrivals and departures. With a regular thirty minute pulse.

Ad Lib 167

 

A mackerel dawn, flaming fish scales in the sky, tells of a fair southerly breeze for the day. Before a change in direction, to the east, from tomorrow.

Stargazer leaves Sovereign harbour on the morning tide. For, by rounding Dungeness today, the expected run of easterlies will become favourable for her homeward journey.

The Pevensey Bay shoreline emerges from night's shadow. Gradually gaining colour and form.

Stargazer's skipper now able to see sufficiently to set about accurately adjusting sail trim.

Stargazer canters over a low swell. Fiery mauves and oranges give way to crystal blue, in the palette of the sky.

Soon, we are upon the mighty shingle spur of Dungeness. Which juts far out into the deep waters of the English Channel. Sending its tidal stream spinning off in whorls and eddies. 

Hastening Stargazer's progress. The low shores of Rye Bay are swiftly replaced with towering chalk cliffs.

Ahead lies the South Foreland. With the port of Dover crouching, dwarfed, at its feet. Ferries bustle to and fro, under the laconic direction of Dover VTS (Vessel Traffic Service). Who must co ordinate the multitude of commercial and leisure movements.

A Stargazer sized gap is found. We sweep in through the western entrance. Diving for the opening, before an eager tide can sweep us past. As if alighting from a moving train (in the days before driver controlled door locks).

Ad Lib 166

 

Tea is served, on the terrace of Langhams, in the traditional way.

The first in a freshly painted parade of imposing seafront properties.

When approaching Old Eastbourne Town, along the shingle, from Sovereign harbour.

The style of dining appears to become more casual. . . .

. . . .the further south, along the row, one progresses.

Whether snacking on ice cream, or savouring tea and scones, all share a royal view of the resplendant Eastbourne Pier. 

An Indian Summer has seemingly set in. Barely a ripple troubles the surface of a benign blue sea.

Which rivals the bowls club's green for smoothness.

The relaxed pace of play entirely suits the soporific feel of this September day. Poised between summer and autumn. Enjoying the best of both seasons.

Ad Lib 165

 

The Sovereign seals survey their surroundings. As the tide ebbs around them. Saving them the work of hauling out.

Whilst a cormorant stands in mute contemplation atop a channel marker. Warming in the sun. After a chilly deep dive.

And an oystercatcher stalks a freshly uncovered shingle bank. On the lookout for any slow to relocate marine snacks.

Barely a breath ruffles Pevensey Bay. A high pressure system looks to be settling in for the week. Causing Stargazer's skipper to rethink passage plans.  

Based around a slower sailing speed. Plus the need to receive tidal assistance to supplement it. Which, together, add up to shorter passage lengths.

On the plus side, we are free to lock out at any state of tide.The welcome presence of dredger Sospan Dau, off the breakwater, resulting in a surprising channel depth upon our arrival. Over a metre greater than when Stargazer left in spring. 

Ad Lib 164

 Pure white, marbled with green, the sheer square face of Beachy Head glints in the afternoon sun. Towering above the toy-town lighthouse at its foot.

By mid-morning the wind had dropped to fourteen knots. With the tide not far off the turn. An exceptionally small neap.

Stargazer sailed from Brighton. None the worse for her bruising, harbour mouth, berth of the past four days. Her shredded ensign, above, and a sizeable residual swell, below, the only reminders of the big blow.

Snowy cliffs slip by. Undercut by the sea; crowned by emerald downland.

Turning tawny, as Stargazer nears Newhaven.

A coaster steams out of the entrance.

Ahead, the view is dominated by Beachy Head. Which Stargazer is bearing down upon at seven knots, on the tide. Her skipper perched on the coachroof. Wielding a mole wrench. Having noticed that one of three allen bolts, which anchor the rod-kicker to the boom, has inexplicably unscrewed itself.

Access for an allen key is blocked by the loaded vang. Hence resort to the wrench. Stargazer has brought the light abeam, by the time the task is completed and a gybe is required.

Stargazer skips toward the glittering golden dome atop Eastbourne pier. The tide maintaining our speed, as the breeze is slowly blanketed by the tall chalk bluff.

An open lock awaits Stargazer at Sovereign Harbour. 

Ad Lib 163

 

A black silhouette swoops out of the sun. Streaking playfully across a tumultuous grey sea.

Which breaks clean across the Brighton marina entrance. The breeze now south westerly and back up to thirty knots.

The kind of conditions which are calculated to draw seasoned kite surfers to the beach.

This low pressure system is expected to clear through during tomorrow. Although opinions vary on the precise timing.

Stargazer requires only a small window to round Beachy Head. Which her skipper hopes to do, with the help of tomorrow afternoon's fair tide. Once the breeze moderates.

The aim being to strategically position Stargazer in Eastbourne. From where it is possible to play the tidal gates, to reach Ramsgate. Last stop before home.

At blistering speed, the balletic figure leaps and gyrates over and across a shimmering seascape. At one with wind and wave.

Ad Lib 162

'The oldest electric railway in the world,' is the proud boast of Brighton's VER narrow guage line. Its single cars silently shuttling those who prefer to admire their seafront views whilst seated.

Stargazer's skipper prefers to stroll along the boardwalk. Which is laid at the head of a long crescent of shingle beach. Sensing the weight in the breeze, as he goes. Finding it plenty strong enough to require long sleeves and a coat, for the first time since spring.

Top layers are swiftly shed, once sheltered by the sun trap town. Beside its stilt legged pier lies a Kiss-Me-Quick kitsch enclave.

Lovely Jubbly Fish 'n' Chips vie with the Pirate Putting Range and souvenir shops galore, for a visitor's attention. In the best British seaside tradition.

The whole set before a grand Georgian frontage. 

Two blocks back, an exotic green cupola, of eastern architectural influence, is framed by the foliage of a stately tree lined boulevard.

Brighton's onion domed, fret-work facaded, Royal Pavilion is set in a park. Surrounded by a serene aura of calm. Built as a relaxing seaside retreat for King George lV.

======= CORRECTION =======

Ted Heath's first Morning Cloud, the S&S 34 which I mentioned yesterday, sank at her Jersey mooring, whilst in her second ownership, during a winter storm, in 1974. Morning Glory turns out to be from the same stable, but is an S&S designed She 33. Never owned by Ted Heath. But yours for £9950 according to the brokers at Boatshed Brighton . Apologies for my confusion! (Ted Heath pictured here aboard  the second Morning Cloud. Also an S&S design)

Did I mention that I thought that I saw Lord Lucan, riding Shergar through the park, by the Pavilion?

Picture Credits

Ted Heath aboard Morning Cloud ll; courtesy of BBC (or possibly Getty Images)