Ad Lib 100

 

Strategically placed sun awnings (sailbags and repurposed wall hangings) cast pools of shade in Stargazer's cockpit. Hatches and hull ports are open, to welcome a late afternoon sea breeze. Through which float the strains of a jazz saxophone. Light as gossamer. Seamlessly, snatches, of instantly recognisable standards, are interwoven with stretches of pure, summer-filled, improvisation. Breathy and considered.

Through the day, the streets, of Saint-Gilles, have been eerily deserted. For this is Le Quatorze. When France marks the storming of the Bastille. Its birth as a Citizen-State.

Those citizens are currently preparing for a night of festivities and fireworks. To be held upon the quaysides and beaches of the port. And across the Republic.

The sardine trawlers rest alongside, as if it is a Sunday.

Several have been at work overnight, however. Creating a flurry of intense activity at the slipway.

First come are first served. Those furthest down, the snaking queue, are disappointed. Forcing a sudden change in the, long planned, celebratory seafood dinner menu. 

From Saint-Gilles' signature sardine, to Golfe de Gascogne culinary hallmark homard (lobster).

Ad Lib 99

 

 On the Saint-Gilles-sur-Vie bank, Vendeean byways: white walls, terracotta tiled roofs, sun-bleached blue shutters.

With a sharp edged, rough stone, slate roofed, Breton style spire rising from their midst.

 On the opposite shore, Croix-de-Vie. Its church in the Basque style. More organic of form, cooler of colour, smoother of finish.

The two towns have been unified, as Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, since 1967. A frequent recommendation, as a favourite port, by French cruisers. Somewhat shunned by northern European visitors. In favour of nearby Ile d'Yeu and Les Sables d'Olonne.

Perhaps deterred by the notoriety, much amplified in the popular pilot books, of its visitors' pontoon. Which greets arrivals with a six foot sign cautioning 'Attention Courant.' Instead of the customary 'Bienvenue.' It might also add a caveat about depth. This Dragonfly afloat only by dint of raised rudder and centreboard.

Stargazer first visited last year. Receiving special attention then, as now, in the form of the services of 'Le Zodiac' (see Ad Lib 98) and the use of an absent bertholder's deep water pontoon finger. Just out of shot (far right) behind the concrete quayside. Which serves to moderate tidal excesses.

Ad Lib 98

 

Stargazer's departure is delayed due to a sustained aerial attack. By a distraught Herring Gull whose bite-sized chick has swum into the open waters of the Port Olona fairway. Stargazer's skipper elects to retreat below. A decision which (narrowly) spares him from a direct hit by a foul smelling faecal deluge.

Several buckets of salt water restore order to, and banish the evil odour from, Stargazer's bespattered cockpit. We set off to greet the returning Classe Mini 6.50 fleet (see Ad Lib 93 & 94) at the pier head.

 Observing their track and adding a new short cut, to the chart plotter, in the process.

Progress is not rapid. But it is carefree and enjoyable. For we have a fair tide and only twenty nautical miles to cover. 

A three knot average will suffice, to bring Stargazer beneath the Pointe de Grosse Terre, shortly before local high water.

When the fierce current, for which the Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie approach channel is renowned, relents for an hour. Making for more relaxed berthing. Particularly when the Capitainerie insist upon sending out 'Le Zodiac' with a crew of skilled line handlers.

Ad Lib 97

 

Les Sables d'Olonne shrinks time. Just as the Vendee Globe records have fallen (see Ad Lib 92), Stargazer's week in port has flown by. Le Quatorze (Bastille Day) will soon be upon us. It is the time, in our annual migration, to turn north.

The faithful Vent Nocturn, which bore Stargazer south, can no longer a helping hand. Now that it has become a headwind.

Fortunately, after a middle of the day stalemate, whilst the Vent Nocturne and Vent Solaire tussle for supremacy, oft as not, a south wind springs up during the afternoon.

Stargazer intends to partially test a Vent Solaire driven strategy tomorrow. Within the constraints of timing our arrival to coincide with high water. For, the tide is not to be trifled with in our next Vendee port of call.

Ad Lib 96

 

Rochelaise Robin Marais has bought, Sablais Manu Cousin's IMOCA (Coup de Pouce in the 2024 Vendee Globe). With his eye to October's Route du Rhum for a first competitive outing.

The boat is a Farr daggerboard design, first launched in 2007, by Jean-Pierre Dick. Racing under Paprec's colours, he was forced to abandon into New Zealand during the 2008 Vendee Globe. After a collision with a UFO (Unidentified Floating Object) left him rudderless.

Robin is a graduate of the Classe Mini 6.50 (see Ad Lib 93 & 94). Cutting his solo offshore teeth on the 2013 Mini Transat.

Before placing eighteenth (out of a fleet of fifty seven), aboard Class40 Ma Chance, in the 2018 Route du Rhum.

The budget to campaign a foiling IMOCA, like those on the victory pontoon ahead of him (see Ad Lib 91), is not currently available. But steady, step-wise, progression is a strategy which has, thus far, served Robin well.

Picture Credits

Robin Marais Route du Rhum 2018 courtesy of Christophe Breschi

Ad Lib 95

 

Recreational sailing remains well represented, amid the solo ocean racing with which Les Sables d'Olonne has become synonymous.

A row of regularly sailed, small, simple wooden 'classiques,' is moored before the images of the Vendee Globe greats. Bringing a smile to their weatherbeaten faces.

As they remember simpler times and pleasures.

Of setting out purely for the pleasure of discovering what sailing joys the day has in store.

Stargazer's skipper shadows the outbound fleet, from the shade of Quai Garnier's alleyways.

Whilst maintaining a sharp lookout for a barber. His last haircut harking back to Poole.

Eventually he emerges, sharply shorn, at the pierhead.

Where the classiques are bobbing over the Biscay swell. Making for an anchorage, off the Grande Plage. To enjoy a picnic stop followed by a cooling dip.

Ad Lib 94

 

A lone Classe Mini slips back into Les Sables d'Olonne. After an early morning foray, courtesy of the Vent Nocturne.

Barely a zephyr remains. But such is the cloud of canvas set by the diminutive craft. . . .

. . . that she glides back to her berth without resort to engine. Her skipper sat down to leeward, milking every last ounce of power from the fading breeze.

By the time that Stargazer's skipper re emerges from the shadows of La Chaume, a warm-from-the-oven breakfast baguette in hand. . . .

. . . .a small convoy has formed. Of Mini Atlantique (see Ad Lib 93) competitors. Tempted out for a spot of boat on boat testing.

Before the heat of the mid morning sun stuns the wind.