Ad Lib 150

 

Stargazer slips into the St Peter Port outer harbour. Once there is water over the cill and a rush of French boats, bound south, has cleared. The breeze northerly today and advantageous to them.

A horn blast from the fast ferry announces the giant catamaran's departure. The port control lights turn red. The harbour echoes to tannoy calls. Seeking to restrain over-eager departing small craft, oblivious to their peril. Out in the Little Russel a cruise liner swings to her anchor. Disgorging a stream of passengers to see the Guernsey sights.

Whilst a coaster offloads containers on the quay beyond. Working the weekend. Perhaps to make up for time lost to a tempestuous week.

Aboard Stargazer, fingers are firmly crossed that the forecast holds fair for a ride through the Raz Blanchard (Alderney Race) tomorrow.

Ad Lib 149

 

By midday the low cloud and mizzle clears. Umbrellas are stowed. Barometers and spirits rise.

White cotton-wool clouds float in blue skies. Above the ornate golden sun of the St James' church windvane. Which points resolutely west. 

Stargazer's favoured wind direction. Her course lying north (three quarters) and east (one quarter). Tomorrow the breeze is forecast to fall light. Before filling in, from the east, to passage-making proportions on Sunday.

Stargazer's plan is to move into the outer harbour tomorrow. Before sailing through the Raz Blanchard (Alderney Race) on Sunday. Expecting a fair wind north to Cap de la Hague. With a tide-assisted beat beyond.

Ad Lib 148

 

With the change in the month we have entered Keats' "Season of mists and mellow fruitfulness." Meteorological Autumn. 

 The cloudbase descends to sea level, off the St Peter Port breakwater. A ghostly Brehon Tower haunts the Little Russel. Herm is swallowed by swirls of fine grey mizzle.

The season marches relentlessly toward the date of the equinox, on September the twenty third.

Which heralds the shorter days and stormier seas of Astronomical Autumn.

Stargazer is poised on the brink of the English Channel. Watching for a weather window to carry her home.

Ad Lib 147

 

After the big Bank Holiday blow we await the arrival of its baby brother. A tempestuous teenager. Somnolent for much of the time, with brief bursts of intense activity. Of the kind unwelcome to small craft transiting the Raz Blanchard (Alderney Race).

One moment, smiling blue skies. The next, scowling black thunder-clouds. With the occasional (faint) rainbow arcing over Castle Cornet.

From tomorrow, tides turn fair for a daylight passage north and east. Stargazer stands ready. Her skipper's dawn weather watch resumed.

Ad Lib 146

The contrast is complete. Castle Cornet floats between blue skies and azure seas on a sleepy sun soaked morning. The air filled with the scream of high revving engines and smell of scorched tyre rubber.

Helmeted heroes hurtle up the steep switchbacks of Le Val des Terres. Bent on setting the fastest time of the day.

Fevered last minute preparations are completed in the pit lane. On a tree shaded boulevard, before the bus station.

There is excitement for all the family.

Sightseers are welcome. Whether hardened motorsport enthusiasts, or passers-by. Drawn by the sound and colour of this spectacle.

The August Bank Holiday hill climb shatters the peace and pulls a crowd.

Adds an unexpected zest to this day of rest.

Ad Lib 145

 

Something in the Guernsey air encourages the ancient seafaring art of boat hopping: Moving from one welcoming cockpit to another. For the exchange of aspirations, tales and information. Lubricated by liberal coffee consumption and, often as not, an open copy of Reeds Nautical Almanac or an iPad full of charts.

Anja and Berthold are Stargazer's immediate neighbours, aboard a similar sized Jeanneau. They are heading south into Biscay for the first time. With plans to over-winter the boat there. Whilst they spend Christmas at home in Germany. Stargazer's skipper is happy to assist in their endeavour. With suggestions of ports which are both scenic and boast suitable yard facilities.

On the next pontoon, is Dutch flagged Hallberg-Rassy 342 Robuste. Stargazer's berth-mate, for a week in Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, last year. Duelling with us on the long beat north to Noirmoutier. Before we went our separate ways. Now homeward bound. With choices to make about which coast to follow. English or European.

Marisol, a thirty five foot Contest, is also making for the Netherlands. Returning from a ten year circumnavigation. Crew and boat looking as fresh as if they were about to set out. With plans for a Biscay cruise, "the most beautiful part," already forming for next season.

Boats able to dry out take their cue from High Barbaree (see Ad Lib 143). Queuing for energetic activity on the scrubbing pad. To speed them on their way, once wind and tide serve.

All of us sheltering behind the high St Peter Port cill. Making our own entertainment, in the time honoured cruising tradition.

Ad Lib 144

 

Our forecast forty knot blow churns the waters of the Little Russel white. Misting the air with salt spume. . . . .

. . . .mingled with rain. From its associated cold front. The berths of St Peter Port as empty as Stargazer's skipper has ever known them. A sight which the Harbour Master confesses is "simply depressing."

For, August Bank Holiday weekend is (usually) his busiest of the year. Soon, the system sweeps by. To leave sunshine and an abnormally brisk breeze.

Which brings Stargazer a new berth mate, from across the Bay of Biscay. Last landfall Porto Spain. A family of four making their way home to Dover. To complete a three year circumnavigation. Pausing for respite, in St Peter Port, whilst this heavy weather passes.

Her skipper's verdict is that his Lagoon 50 was "the perfect boat for the trip." Despite the marque's reputation as 'Condo-Cats,' favouring condominium scale accomodation over sailing performance. "It was mostly downwind. Only the Red Sea was a problem. This boat is ideal as a long-term live-aboard,” he adds.

A view probably shared by a cool-as-a-cucumber solo German skipper (with whom I prove to have insufficient language skills to hold a meaningful conversation). Also in from Porto (was as far as we got). He pirouetted his eight metre beam craft, within the confines of the harbour, by running one engine forwards and the other in reverse. Coming sweetly alongside, as the breeze built, single handed.

To dwarf Kimbula, the other occupant of 'cat corner.' The shallowest part of the harbour. Also, as her mirror reflection testifies, the most sheltered. Tight in beneath the intersection of two tall granite quaysides.