Ad Lib 137

 

Barely a breeze stirs beneath the high wooded banks of Treguier. Ten nautical miles inland from the granite toothed mouth of the river Jaudy.

Here, the low autumn sun bursts ready risen from the tree tops. Long after daybreak. With a bright-eyed stare. Skipping the soft honey tones of dawn, in its hurry to regain time lost to its lie in.

It casts long shadows as it bolts down a breakfast of dew drops. Which lie scattered across Stargazer's deck, until beyond mid morning. A reminder of the season's march.

Off the coast of Peru, 'the strongest ever recorded El Niño' event has been triggered, by elevated temperatures. Come to colour our weather now and for the next year. Sparking much speculation, in the press, and some consternation amongst seafarers on passage.

Memories of last August’s storm-bound ten day stay in Cherbourg . . . . .

. . . . .quickly followed by an enforced fortnight’s sojourn, in Le Havre, during September, spring to the forefront of Stargazer's skipper's mind.

With the wind in the east, for the weekend, our immediate navigational choices are limited. Particularly with its strength forecast to be on the high side.

Both the Baie de St Malo ports (red route) and the Channel Islands (green route) lie to Stargazer's east. (Stargazer is the blue dot, arrowed in yellow.)

Stargazer's routing decision is a question of watching and waiting. To see how the breeze settles, after the blow is over. Then, of assessing tide timings, relative to daylight hours, at that point. With a wary eye kept on how the long range forecasts are shaping.

Picture Credits

El Nino screenshot; courtesy of BBC News

Baie de Saint Malo basemap; courtesy of Google Maps

Ad Lib 136

 Guirec Soudee has already squeezed a surfeit of sailing achievement into a short space of time. With his next adventure soon to start: November’s Route du Rhum race. (Solo St Malo to Guadeloupe). Aboard an Ultim trimaran, presently moored in Treguier.

The boat is from the same, pre-foiling, era as Alexia Barrier's IDEC Sport (See Ad Lib 125 & 128). Also entered. Guirec spent the winter (southern summer) sailing his hundred foot trimaran the 'wrong’ way around the world. Against wind and current. Setting a record time.

Guirec first caught public attention with video updates chronicling the exploits of Monique. "The Hen Who Sailed Around The World." The proceeds and profile generated, sufficient to mount his 2024 Vendee Globe campaign.

The success, of which venture, enabled Guirec to purchase an Ultim (previously Adagio, before that Sodebo) and to attract MACSF as his title sponsor. 

Small wonder that a steady stream of sailing-sightseers now troop along the Treguier pontoons to see her.

Passing a sign, strung in the dyneema shrouds, seeking their help. To complete the Route du Rhum purse, through sales of 'Yacht Club Monique' memberships.

A funding vehicle which could, later, help to turn another aspiration into reality: An entry to the 2028 Arkea Ultim Challenge. (Solo around the world. The 'right' way. Against a fleet of fellow Ultims)

Picture Credits

Monique overwinters in the ice; courtesy of Guirce-Soudee-Projet

Guirec returns with the round-the-world-envers record; courtesy of Erwan Le Bourdais

Guirec Soudee's Web Site For all things Guirec Soudee. Past, present & future.

Ad Lib 135

 

Treguier maintains something of the air of a mediaeval meeting point. A crossroads at the confluence of the rivers Jaudy and Guindy. Where terrestrial trails bridge their fast flowing waters.

A place of ancient pilgrimage. To the cathedral originally founded by the Welsh monk Saint Tugdual. After fleeing sixth century persecution in his Celtic home land. 

 Its famous sky piercing perforated spire, a later addition, by pious eighteenth monks. Paid for by King Louis. Prior to the Revolution.

As a burgeoning ecclesiastical town blossomed. Spilling down the slopes, of the hilltop, upon which the religious centre is set.

To the mellow meanders and rolling fields below. Their combination conjouring a singular air of serenity.

Ad Lib 134

 

Stargazer races east in the grey of the pre-dawn twilight. Hatches sealed against a deluge from the skies. Her skipper on his hands and knees scrubbing the decks. Grateful for the free freshwater power-wash, in this summer of hosepipe bans.

A gusty sixteen to twenty knots propels Stargazer, under all plain sail, from her quarter. With tidal assistance we are making eight knots. Les Sept Iles are a smudge on the rain blurred horizon.

Soon we are upon them. Slaloming around two Dutch flagged forty footers. Which are sedately trundling downwind under genoa. With no sail set aft of the mast.

Today there is to be no scenic sunrise. Towering clouds roil and boil overhead. Bearing a fair wind for Stargazer's passage.

 We round the point, off Ploumanac'h. The hues of its wild Granit Rose crag-scape, the golden Men Ruz tower itself (One quarter in. Left hand horizon) reduced to mere monochrome silhouettes.

Stargazer flies on. Surfing the swells. Into the mouth of the river Jaudy. A mighty squall sweeps through. Stargazer double reefs her main. Rolls her jib. Visibility falls further, in the ensuing cloudburst. Speed rises, despite the reduction in sail area. We hop our way from one channel marker to the next. Much aided by the plotter screen.

High banks rise around us, warding off the wind. The waters smooth. Warming sunshine begins the task of drying oilskins. We sight 'the chateau,' on the last bend before Treguier. 

Ad Lib 133

 Ile Milliau’s monster strides through the undergrowth. Bulging eyes set high upon its forehead. Glaring forward. Perpetually spewing foliage from gaping jaws. Worn fangs protruding through parted lips.

It marches toward twin pools of shade. Cast by adjacent feathered canopies. One hewn from granite, the other borne by a lofty scots pine. Each mimicking the other’s form.

Zen stacks stand tall, radiating a rounded calm, amid the island's hall-of-mirrors enchantment. 

Below, lies a swathe of white-gold beach. Where paddle boarders play. 

In its sheltered shallows. As the sands shelve gently into a lightly ruffled azure sea. 

Ad Lib 132

 With a tidal range only slightly less than Stargazer's length, the shoreside scenery is ever shifting. Boats afloat an hour ago are high and dry. Ready for a mid season scrub.

Beyond the retaining wall (perimeter of the pool in the foreground), a moonscape seabed is bared. Trebeurden's approach channel is reduced to a silver rivulet (Centre of picture. Curving sharp left. Marked by three green withies).

All who did not leave before half tide are confined to port.

Able to scramble out, along dry ridgeback causeways, to scale tree topped crag-islands.

Where the juxtaposition, of still reflective water and dynamically poised Granit Rose, creates a tranquil, Chinese Water Garden, aura.

Ad Lib 131

 

Stargazer makes her multicoloured landfall on the Cote de Granit Rose.

A world of ruddy-brown wave smoothed rocks.

Sculpted into curvaciously organic forms.

Shortly after sunrise, Stargazer sailed from Roscoff. Her decks beaded with autumnal dew. 

We stike out across the crag studded Baie de Morlaix. Some are marked. . . .

. . . .others are visible according to the rise of tide. Which is falling fast. A whole nine-metre-spring of it. Stargazer with a depth constrained destination in mind.

Her skipper is therefore relieved to sight the protective ring of shoals, which shelter Trebeurden from wind and swell, shortly after an elevenses pot of coffee.

For, the breeze has taken longer than anticipated to fully wake from its overnight slumber. Slowing Stargazer's progress.

Consequently, the sands of Ile Molene's beach are extensively uncovered, dotted with dinghies, out from the mainland for an adventure picnic, by the time we glide under its lee. 

Stargazer crosses the harbour cill shortly before its flap gate is raised, to seal the retaining wall.