All at Sea with Stargazer
I live by the sea, maybe live for the sea, on an island in the tidal River Medway. Just downstream of the historic Chatham Naval Dockyard - where Nelson's Victory was built. For me the sea is about freedom and exploration - both personal and geographical. Stargazer is a 31' Hallberg-Rassy sloop; and companion on my journey
Tuesday, 9 June 2026
Ad Lib 67
Monday, 8 June 2026
Ad Lib 66
Pen Duick V (see Ad Lib 64) skims from crest to crest. Leaping effortlessly, like a silver salmon.
Stargazer and Pen Duick sail shoulder to shoulder, as they thread the Toulinguet gap. The sun, still to rise, softens a steel grey sky with a suffusion of pink.
Hard on the wind, the two small ships thunder south.
Tacking to clear the Tas de Pois.
The day brightens and mellows. Stargazer tacks on.
Making her landfall five nautical miles east of the Pointe du Raz. For which, Pen Duick has already tacked. Crossing a fleet of Classe Mini 6.50 racers, running in to Douarnenez, beneath serrated ramparts of tumbled granite.
Stargazer follows Pen Duick. Out to the wave gnarled tip of the jutting peninsula. A half filled jawbone, in which only the hardiest rock molars survive the ravages of time and tempest.
The two travelling companions tack on. Standing west to Tevennec. The lighthouse which guards the northern outcrops of the, lower lying, Ile de Sein. Where Tom Dolan's Figaro lays beached, at risk of breaking up (see Ad Lib 61 & 63).
The tide is setting Stargazer down on the black silhouette of La Vieille. A residual storm-surge rears high. Finding itself confined between the Pointe du Raz and Ile de Sein. Dashing itself against the stoic stone saviour-of-sailors in frustration.
Sunday, 7 June 2026
Ad Lib 65
In tumultuous chorus the song of wind and surf combine. The tang of salt spray flavours the air.
Heightening the senses. Bringing colours to vivid life.
The full force, of this second gale, becomes evident on cresting the rise in Camaret's coast path.
Where the wind whips in unfettered from the southwest. Over the bulwark of Toulinguet. Across the wild Atlantic Ocean.
Driving, before it, the seas which have hewn the hard Breton granite into fantastical formations.
Underfoot, the path swoops downward. Soon it is possible to stand straight, without stooping and staggering to the gusts. The vegetation reaches shoulder height, becoming softer and more luxuriant.
Stargazer's skipper enters the sun-trap embrace of Porz-Naye's ochre cliffs. Swiftly shedding jacket and jumper. Settling on the shingle beach for lunch.
Saturday, 6 June 2026
Ad Lib 64
A flock of storm birds gathers, in Camaret, as the wind gusts to forty knots.
Two jet black, one maverick grey, Coal Tits. Pen Duick in the Breton tongue. The former fleet of ocean racing pioneer Eric Tabarly (1931-1998). Pen Duick ll is a slim sterned ketch of the 'fish shaped' design school.
Pen Duick lll is of a similar philosophy. But lighter and stiffer. Built to cleave cleanly through the waves.
Pen Duick V is the paradigm shifting, epoch shaper. An all aluminium, ultra lightweight (eschewing even paint), water ballasted (the world's first such) flyer. Built to skim above the surface of the sea. Much imitated and evolved to the present day. By IMOCA's and Class40's, amongst miriad others.
Out in the bay, Daniel Alfredsson's OE32 Pale Blue Dot rides to her anchor. They are putting in their qualification miles, for this year's solo round the world Golden Globe Race (GGR).
Last port of call Soreide Norway. Caught by this succession of gales, in the North Atlantic, they have run direct downwind for Camaret's (relative) respite. Prevented (I suspect) from putting into port by rules which require their passage to be 'unbroken.'
Friday, 5 June 2026
Ad Lib 63
An update to Tom Dolan's tale (Ad Lib 61) and an apology from me. Far from playing tidal cat and mouse, with the treacherous reefs of the Raz de Sein, in the dark; Tom fell victim to fatigue, at an ill fated moment, during a 'lull' in the fast paced race. In Tom's own words:
Thursday, 4 June 2026
Ad Lib 62
La Recouvrance puts to sea, on a day when white horses roam blue seas and few venture out.
A black squall lays her on her beam ends, as she clears the point, which shelters Camaret.
Swirling over and around the high cliffs of Toulinguet. Our wavebreak five miles to seaward.
La Recouvrance's slender clipper bow rises to meet the storm sent swell. Her long bowsprit spears skyward.
Before smiting down. In a welter of salt spray.
The coxwain spins her mighty wheel. La Recouvrance heels to the breeze. Plunging and rearing. Broadside to the waves. Hestitating; uncertain and vulnerable.
Before she steadies to her new course. Wind and wave on her quarter. Galloping toward the Goulet and on to her home port of Brest.
La Recouverance is a rare female French ship (usually they are masculine). In this case named in honour of Brest's La Recouvrance neighbourhood. Site of the naval dockyards, before their relocation, across the Rade, to Le Fret. La Recouvrance is a recreation of the swift sailing Packet ships, which carried news and intelligence, from French interests in Africa and the Antilles. The Topsail schooner launched during the 1992 Fete Maritime de Brest.
Wednesday, 3 June 2026
Ad Lib 61
Full foul weather gear is required, for a mid morning stroll to the harbourside bistros.
Pegasus has brought more than the Cross of St Piran, which ripples tautly at her crosstrees, back from Cornwall. Wind borne mizzle thickens the air, to the consistency of soup.
Before dawn, Irish racer, Tom Dolan, was airlifted from his grounded Figaro (Thirty five foot French One Design race boat, with ultra competitive circuit. On which many a Vendée Globe star has served an apprenticeship). Seeking to maintain a hard won lead, Tim took one tide cheating short cut too far. Amid the reefs and rip currents of the Raz de Sein, in thirty knots of breeze, in the dark. Solo skipper Tom is safe. His boat is likely lost.
Picture Credits
Tom Dolan aground in the Raz de Sein courtesy of Thomas Campion
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