Ad Lib 65

In tumultuous chorus the song of wind and surf combine. The tang of salt spray flavours the air.

Heightening the senses. Bringing colours to vivid life.

The full force, of this second gale, becomes evident on cresting the rise in Camaret's coast path.

Where the wind whips in unfettered from the southwest. Over the bulwark of Toulinguet. Across the wild Atlantic Ocean.

Driving, before it, the seas which have hewn the hard Breton granite into fantastical formations.

Thorn-studded, wind-stunted, scrub hunkers beside the path. Laying low in hollows and behind crags.

Underfoot, the path swoops downward. Soon it is possible to stand straight, without stooping and staggering to the gusts. The vegetation reaches shoulder height, becoming softer and more luxuriant.

Stargazer's skipper enters the sun-trap embrace of Porz-Naye's ochre cliffs. Swiftly shedding jacket and jumper. Settling on the shingle beach for lunch.

There to contemplate the weather outlook. For, tides are now coming fair in the Raz de Sein. The wind is forecast to drop fast. In fact, Stargazer must sail on the morning tide.

 

Ad Lib 64

 

A flock of storm birds gathers, in Camaret, as the wind gusts to forty knots.

Two jet black, one maverick grey, Coal Tits. Pen Duick in the Breton tongue. The former fleet of ocean racing pioneer Eric Tabarly (1931-1998). Pen Duick ll is a slim sterned ketch of the 'fish shaped' design school.

Pen Duick lll is of a similar philosophy. But lighter and stiffer. Built to cleave cleanly through the waves.

Pen Duick V is the paradigm shifting, epoch shaper. An all aluminium, ultra lightweight (eschewing even paint), water ballasted (the world's first such) flyer. Built to skim above the surface of the sea. Much imitated and evolved to the present day. By IMOCA's and Class40's, amongst miriad others.

Out in the bay, Daniel Alfredsson's OE32 Pale Blue Dot rides to her anchor. They are putting in their qualification miles, for this year's solo round the world Golden Globe Race (GGR). 

Last port of call Soreide Norway. Caught by this succession of gales, in the North Atlantic, they have run direct downwind for Camaret's (relative) respite. Prevented (I suspect) from putting into port by rules which require their passage to be 'unbroken.'

Ad Lib 63

An update to Tom Dolan's tale (Ad Lib 61) and an apology from me. Far from playing tidal cat and mouse, with the treacherous reefs of the Raz de Sein, in the dark; Tom fell victim to fatigue, at an ill fated moment, during a 'lull' in the fast paced race. In Tom's own words:

More about the race: 

Tom was leading Leg (Etape) 3 of the prestigious Solitaire du Figaro. With hopes justifiably high for an overall win. After Tom taking first place in the 2024 edition.

Following in the illustrious footsteps of the three Vendee Globe 2024 podium sitters. Figaro sailors all. Who successfully transferred the relentless round-the-clock pace, for which the Solitaire du Figaro is renowned, to their solo circumnavigation. Each handsomely beating the course record (of 74 days, set by Armel Le Cleac'h in 2016). 

More about the boat: The Figaro, produced by the French boatbuilding behemoth Beneteau, entered its third generation sporting foils. Which generate lift to leeward. To resist the heeling forces of the sails. Enabling more canvas to be carried in higher winds. Without the need for weighty of water ballast and with a lighter keel bulb to boot.

In other respects, the concept of the Figaro 3 remains remarkably similar to that of her predecessors. Namely a (relatively) simple and affordable, thirty five footer, suitable for solo or short-handed One-Design racing. The Figaro 1 debuted in 1990. Designed specifically for a sailing circuit to be sponsored by Le Figaro newspaper. The rest, as the saying goes, is history.

Picture Credits

Tom Dolan air lift from the Raz de Sein courtsey of  Thomas Campion

Tom Dolan's tale screenshot courtesy of  tomdolanracing.com

La Solitaire du Figaro 2026 course chart courtesy of lasolitaire.com

Vendee Globe 2024 rankings screenshot courtesy of  vendeeglobe.org

Figaro 3 pictures courtesy of  beneteau.com

Ad Lib 62

La Recouvrance puts to sea, on a day when white horses roam blue seas and few venture out.

A black squall lays her on her beam ends, as she clears the point, which shelters Camaret. 

Swirling over and around the high cliffs of Toulinguet. Our wavebreak five miles to seaward.

La Recouvrance's slender clipper bow rises to meet the storm sent swell. Her long bowsprit spears skyward.

Before smiting down. In a welter of salt spray.

The coxwain spins her mighty wheel. La Recouvrance heels to the breeze. Plunging and rearing. Broadside to the waves. Hestitating; uncertain and vulnerable.

Before she steadies to her new course. Wind and wave on her quarter. Galloping toward the Goulet and on to her home port of Brest.

La Recouverance is a rare female French ship (usually they are masculine). In this case named in honour of Brest's La Recouvrance neighbourhood. Site of the naval dockyards, before their relocation, across the Rade, to Le Fret. La Recouvrance is a recreation of the swift sailing Packet ships, which carried news and intelligence, from French interests in Africa and the Antilles. The Topsail schooner launched during the 1992 Fete Maritime de Brest.

Ad Lib 61

Slingshot weather systems speed by in the night. Setting Stargazer's lines creaking and her rigging singing.

Full foul weather gear is required, for a mid morning stroll to the harbourside bistros.

Pegasus has brought more than the Cross of St Piran, which ripples tautly at her crosstrees, back from Cornwall. Wind borne mizzle thickens the air, to the consistency of soup.

 

Today, only the hardiest of sightseers admire the artistic juxtaposition of Sardiniers, church and fort.

Stargazer's skipper luxuriates in the absence of any pressing need to move on. Content to wait for the emergence of a suitable window, for our passage through the Raz de Sein. In the knowledge that the tides will not come fair for several days; and that, in the meanwhile, fresh food and cliff walks lie readily to hand.

Before dawn, Irish racer, Tom Dolan, was airlifted from his grounded Figaro (Thirty five foot French One Design race boat, with ultra competitive circuit. On which many a Vendée Globe star has served an apprenticeship). Seeking to maintain a hard won lead, Tim took one tide cheating short cut too far. Amid the reefs and rip currents of the Raz de Sein, in thirty knots of breeze, in the dark. Solo skipper Tom is safe. His boat is likely lost.

Picture Credits

Tom Dolan aground in the Raz de Sein courtesy of Thomas Campion

 

Ad Lib 60

 

Throughout a storm swept day, crews seek shelter.

As black squalls darken blue skies.

The Camaret visitor pontoons steadily fill with an eclectic diversity of craft:

A sampan up from the Vilaine.

A Norwegian flagged Neel trimaran down from Oslo. Her scale dwarfing that of a low slung Outremer catamaran of similar length. Which opts to stay on the outside (to leeward) of the wave break. 

The French pilot cutter Pegasus arrives from Falmouth. Cornish courtesy flag still flying. Neatly picking up a mooring buoy. 

Which lies part way between the relative calm of the Vauban Tower berths (windbreak required, in the form of sprayhood or sweater) and the total tranquilty of the Vieux Port (polo shirt and perspiration).

Whilst the substantial, steel-built, Rara Avis drops anchor off the beach. To a chiming of ship's bells. There to ride out the gale, beneath the cliffs of the Crozon.

One step ahead of the rest, La Recouvrance made her stately way up to the Rade de Brest, during Sunday's calmer conditions.

Ad Lib 59

Softly, Camaret stirs to life, on a sleepy summer's morning. Sun canopies are unfurled, to shade cafe terraces. Sails are hoisted, in hope of a sea breeze. Gin clear waters sparkle.

 At the head of the harbour, the decommissioned sardine fleet contrives to continue the outdoor art installation theme. Which was started by the sculptural rock formations of Toulinguet (Ad Lib 58).  With slightly more patina, slightly less paint, each season. In a process more resembling ripening than decay.

With the mellowed brickwork of Vauban's multifaceted tower as a backdrop. Its ornate architectural form belying a bellicose defensive function. (Deterring Nelson's Navy and other unwelcome guests, during the great age of sail.)

Soon, Stargazer's flags begin to stream. As the wind rouses itself to action. By midday it is innocently whistling, whilst surreptitiously backing from west to southwest, and building swiftly.

Beyond the breakwater, a scarcely perceived swell builds, in the Anse de Brest. Fully revealing its presence only when it encounters the slowly shelving beach sands.

Signalling that a substantial blow is marching toward Stargazer, from seaward.