Zen Again 57

 

The afternoon sun enriches the ochres, of the wave hewn granite cliffs. Wind sculpted scotch pines stand on the skyline. Verdant heath clothes the slope between. Through which, unseen, from sea level, wends a cliff path. My vantage point, two years ago, when I first set eyes upon the Port Guen anchorage.

This morning, Stargazer sailed through the Port Louis Citadelle narrows. The gentlest of westerly breezes setting in. The ebb beneath us.

We hoist the kite. Making a stately three to three and a half knots. Out of the Lorient channel. Bound south, paralleling the low, silver sand fringed Quiberon peninsula.

By the time we clear the island of Groix, the sea breeze is in. Stargazer making five to six knots.

The grey silhouette, of Belle Ile, rapidly assumes colour and form. In a display of Breton craggy magnificence.

Beneath a distinctive angular headland, to the east of Le Palais, Stargazer rounds up and sounds in. Until her sails hang limp, in the lee of the cliffs. There we drop anchor. As, in their day, the square riggers once did. To replenish their water barrels, at Vauban's Fontaine Aiguade.

Zen Again 56

 

Stargazer's barometer steadies once more.

On a breakfast-in-the-cockpit morning, in Port Louis.

The air is still. The silence, resounding.

Tomorrow, the west wind is expected to return. With the anchorages, of Belle Ile, Hoedic and Houat, a morning's sail away. For the dawn treader.

Zen Again 55

 There is a feeling of quiet industry to today's Ascension Bank Holiday. Light airs have reduced the number of boats leaving their berths. Causing their crews to seek alternative pleasures. Peche a Pied patrols are therefore out in force. Taking advantage of a midday low tide. Which renders the heads, of Lorient's many gently shelving coves, accessible through much of the day.

I take a tempting footpath, out of Port Louis. Which leads off, along the west bank of the river Blavet.

It winds along the low cliffs, of the foreshore. The skeletons of former fishing boats lining the gravel beach below.

Before plunging into lush heathland, overhung by tall trees. Where the air is filled with the melodic musings of a myriad songbirds.

Out in the river, harbour ferries shuttle to and fro. On the opposite bank, the gaunt concrete pens, of La Base, are deserted, for the holiday. Save for Thomas Ruyant's Vulnerable (two tone blue with white sash).

The city skyscrapers, of downtown Lorient, glint, from the next clearing. With two ships unloading, into towering silos, on the wharf.

The path re emerges, onto the shoreline of Kerzo bay. Where I pause for a picnic.

In a sand fringed horseshoe, around which desirable waterside properties cluster. 

Enjoying views of the Port Louis Citadelle and Peche a Pied foragers.

Before walking on, to the delightfully sleepy port village, of Locmiquelic, which nestles around the next point.

Zen Again 54

 

A sally-port pierces the seaward ramparts, which extend along the promotry, upon which the Port Louis Citadelle stands. Affording views of the craggy approaches, to Lorient. With Groix silhouetted on the skyline. Mauve and mysterious.

Shaded by the wall, beside the portal, stands a thoughtfully placed, glass fronted, bookshelf; stocked with popular paperbacks. 

A riot, of wildflowers, erupts from the ancient stonework.

Beyond the arch, a fan of steps gives onto the Plage du Lohic.

Which is favoured, by hardy Breton sea bathers, when the tide is high.

A short scramble, over the rocky foreshore, or across the soft silver sands of the beach, leads to the harbour entrance.

Where boat watching opportunities abound.

Zen Again 53

 

A watchful Kestrel scans the long grass below. Holding station effortlessly, riding the buffeting updraughts. With the occasional beat of powerful wings. Barred tail held low.

It hovers high above the angular walls, and round-topped turrets, of Port Louis Citadelle. Which guards the narrow, rock girt, bottleneck, that is gateway to Lorient's sheltered inner rade.

Violette Dorange (who is taking over Sam Davies' mantle, as skipper of the IMOCA Initiatives Coeur) braves the blustery conditions, to learn the ways of her new charge. Veteran of the 2024 Vendee Globe, aboard a 2006 dagger board design, she is new to foiling scows.

The wind rises another notch, as a rain squall closes in, from the island of Groix. Setting the ships at anchor, in its shelter, swinging.

Some hours later, Violette sweeps back, beneath the ramparts. An oilskin clad entourage evident on the aft deck, preparing to drop sail. Once in their lee.

Whilst a, madcap, Ocean Fifty trimaran closes, from seaward, at full throttle. Trailing a tall white rooster-tail astern. Embodying the, fun loving, spirit of her sponsor: Le Rire Médecin.

Zen Again 52

 

Stargazer has, not one, but two AIS buddies today. One, we follow out of Concarneau. The other,  pursues us into Lorient.

The sun is just risen, and the breeze is barely stirring, as Stargazer sets sail.

Hull down, on the horizon, a large white asymetric spinnaker is travelling at improbable speed, for the conditions. Charlie Dalin is at light airs practice. Making eight to ten knots. 

Out of my sight, but visible on Stargazer’s AIS, Rosalin Kuiper (newly appointed skipper, of Holcim PRB, for the 2028 Vendee Globe) sails alongside. The 2024 victor, perhaps, helping the 2028 hopeful to hone her race skills.

Meanwhile, Stargazer's, more modestly sized, asymetric ekes three knots from the zephyrs

Rising to five, as the morning progresses, and the sea breeze awakens.

By lunch time, I swap the asymetric for the genoa. With Stargazer romping along the shoreline, in a sixteen knot westerly.

Taking the scenic route and skimming the headlands.

Slipping into the Lorient approaches, by the side door.

The tide gurgles beneath us, as Stargazer reaches past the Port Louis Citadelle. Its lichen crusted turrets at odds, with the gleaming black glass, of the Port Control tower, which peers over the ancient parapet.

Rosalin rockets by, making for La Base. The former WWll submarine pens, at the head of the harbour. Now home to the foremost IMOCA and Ultim teams.

  

Zen Again 51

Stargazer enjoys colourful companions, for her Concarneau stopover. 

Each day, more individualistic craft, and their bohemian crews, arrive. 

What is afoot? The youthful group are courteous to a fault. Yet seem disinclined to be drawn into conversation. By my Franglais, at any rate.

The pontoons become communal workspaces. Dedicated to sociable dining, mutual grooming and the design of banners. With occasional bursts of song, early in the evening.

 'Stop Bollore' slogans predominate, when the flotilla sets sail, beneath Saturday’s grizzled skies. Amid a chorus of ululating Apache war cries. Augmented by the plaintive siren, of a lone Gendarmerie patrol car. Which takes up ostentatious station, upon the quayside. But, whose occupants choose not to emerge.

The Sunday papers reveal all: Bollore is a French septuagenarian corporate raider and billionaire. The family empire includes title to both the Iles de Glenan and the CNews (sic) TV channel. (Which I have heard described as the French Fox News). Yesterday's armada had sailed, on the former, in protest at the latter. In defiance of an order, by the Prefet Maritime.

The west wind is in and Sunday is no day of rest, for the racers of Classe Mini 6.50. A, shovel fronted, Magnen design, sistership to Ouch, rigs up, on the Mer Concept jetty.

 

Giving chase to a sharp bowed classic. Built before the dawn of the scows. Stargazer means to follow suit. Once the thundery squalls settle.

Picture Credits

Bollore protest screenshot: courtesy of Le Telegramme