Into The Mystic Cruise 2013 - update 39

Sat 3.8.13: Sneem, the Kenmare River.
The breeze is down to 24 knots from the west, as we leave Castletownbere. The blue-black sea is white crested and furrowed deeply by the wind, out in Bantry Bay.
A rainbow arches across the horizon. Prelude to a ten minute, 30 knot, black squall - followed immediately by clear skies and sunshine.
Stargazer clambers out over the swell; hard on the wind, under double reefed main - more mountain goat than boat, today.
Bull Rock rears vertically out of the surging seas, its creased brown flanks stream white with spume. An arc of sky blue, at its base, reveals a tunnel cut clean through the rock, by the tumbling waves.
We bear off, for the Kenmare River. It's dead downwind. We 'sail the angles,' gybing our way in; under full sail, now that the wind is free. Another black squall comes through. Stargazer's bow wave climbs aft and rises alongside us, like two white walls. For five minutes we're planing at 9-10 knots!
I dowse the jib and reach into Sneem, dodging round the necklace of green, shrub topped, low cliffed, islands, which protect the anchorage. Brightly coloured rowing gigs battle in the channel ahead. It's Sneem Regatta. I round up and drop the main, as a tall ship follows us in.
(No data signal at the moment - pix to follow if/when I find some!)
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Location:Ring of Kerry,,Ireland

Into The Mystic Cruise 2013 - update 38

Fri 2.8.13: Castltownbere, Bantry Bay.




Soft rays of sunlight suffuse the pastel walls, of Castletownbere, with a welcoming glow.




They encourage lingering reflection; and discussion, which spills out, amicably, over the narrow pavement.




The business of Fish is never far away.




Deeper into town the colours become richer, more vibrant...




... and the shop signs speak of newly landed fish.




10 days out from Kinsale, although Stargazer's water tanks are almost half full; bread, fruit, salad and vegetable stocks are running low.




I fill my rucksack, with fresh provisions, before rowing back. Strong to gale winds are forecast to continue for the next 24 hours.
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Location:Ireland

Into The Mystic Cruise 2013 - update 37

Thr 1.8.13: Castletownbere, Bantry Bay




The curtains of mist and rain are momentarily torn aside, by the wind, as a trawler puts to sea .




We're riding out 30 knots of south to south west wind, low visibility and sheeting rain; in the lee of Bere Island and the high quaysides of Castletownbere.




A French boat has put in to join us.




The black and white striped Gwenn-ha-du (Breton national flag) flies from her backstay - above her French tricolour;...




... and below her Irish courtesy flag.




The Celtic nation is united by the sea.
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Location:Seaview Terrace,,Ireland

Into The Mystic Cruise 2013 - update 36

Wed 30.7.13: Castletownbere, Bantry Bay




Behind the ranks of sharp bowed, brightly painted trawlers...




....a church stands four square and imposing, on the quayside. Its stained glass windows sight directly down the Bere Haven channel, and watch over the ocean beyond.




The forecast weather front blew in overnight. Today a veil, of misty rain, masks the grandeur of our surroundings.




It cloaks the backdrop of green sloped, domed hills; clustered at the feet of a single, soaring, sharp ended, flat topped summit - jutting ribs, of living rock, arching and scrolling along its lean flanks, like the woad markings of a Celtic warrior.
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Location:R572,Castletownbere,Ireland

Into The Mystic Cruise 2013 - update 35

Tue 29.7.13: Castletownbere, Bantry Bay




We're in an improvised anchorage, inside one of the main trawler ports, on this coast. The forecast is for southerly winds "increasing to near gale over the next 24 hours." So I wanted to be somewhere fairly bullet proof. We were making for Lawrence Cove - a bay on the north side of Bere Island. On arrival, it turned out to be rather exposed. A small warship, at anchor, was being visibly buffeted by wind and swell. Castletownbere is "plan B."




There's space, clear of the fish docks, at the head of the harbour, with enough water for Stargazer to float. It's taken up by small, unoccupied moorings. We're anchored between them. OK so long as they stay unoccupied!




Although Castltownbere is a major trawler port, the entrance is only 36m wide. Two submerged rocks form the pinch point.




Red and white striped transits guided us in - for once, under engine!




We beat up to Mizen Head in 18 knots of breeze, swooping over a long Atlantic swell, under jib and a well flattened main.




Off Sheep Head, we cracked sheets, with 25 knots of breeze on our port quarter; and surfed the rollers, funnelling into Bantry Bay.
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Location:Ireland

Into The Mystic Cruise 2013 - update 34

Mon 28.7.13: Crookhaven, Ireland.




The wind roars and howls, from an innocent blue sky.




Our Irish tricolour snaps and cracks on its halyard.




Gone is yesterday's looking glass sea. Gusts chase down the valley, darkening the water, and sending Stargazer waltzing around her anchor chain.




A Sparkman and Stephens 34, sister ship to Ted Heath's famous Morning Cloud, has put in for shelter. She's anchored astern of Stargazer; biding her time, to sail west.
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Location:R591,,Ireland

Into The Mystic Cruise 2013 - update 33

Sun 28.7.13: Crookhaven, Ireland




The sky, behind the church of St Brendan the Navigator, is as grey as the bewhiskered seal, which scrutinises Stargazer, from a wary distance.




The barometer has dropped sharply overnight. Today's sunshine is broken by....




...short, sharp, showers, scudding down the valley.




Today the breeze is fickle. Tomorrow fresh to strong south westerlies are forecast.




We'll bide our time, before sailing for Bantry Bay or the Kenmare River. Mizen Head is the last 'corner' to round, before we reach the west coast of Ireland; under the lee of America.
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Location:Waterford and Tipperary Mountains,,Ireland