Zen Again 149

 Stargazer's cruising chute fills with a satisfying crack. The gurgle, of her bow wave, turns to a chuckle as we pick up speed. The rising sun, and the day, are before us. The breeze on our starboard quarter.

Saint Vaast's Hougues, and the flurry of small angling boats, which sped out through the gates as soon as they opened,  soon fall astern.

As we leave the lee of the land, the breeze builds encouragingly.

Ships, waiting for orders, lie at anchor, out in the Baie de la Seine. Visual pointers, signalling the run of the tide. Favourable, for the while, with a southerly cross set.

Stargazer follows the rhumb line. Her skipper poling the chute, wing on wing, as the breeze veers due west. Dead astern.

The marine 'zone de manutention' (construction site) exclusion area, off Courseulles, causes a minor detour. Something substatial has been in build there for several years. Perhaps a wind farm.

Stargazer still runs wing and wing, but under white sails now. And on the opposite tack. The kite handed, for ease of manoeuvrability. 

With the breeze dead astern, the slightest variation in wind angle, caused by a passing cloud for example, requires a gybe. Progress slows. Both through the water, the breeze falling light, and over the ground, the full force of a spring tide presently against us.

The afternoon ferry, out of Caen, rumbles across our bow. Well clear. Trawlers courteously keep their distance. Stargazer makes her easting, at a sedate three and a bit knots. A tranquil afternoon glides by.

By sundown the tide is turning in our favour. The merchantmen, at anchor of the mouth of the Seine, swing in unison. As if swivelling their necks to admire Stargazer as she passes.

The wind returns, from the north. Giving Stargazer a faster point of sailing, more power and a fair tide. Her skipper prepares lines and fenders, to reduce deck work after nightfall. Whilst Stargazer romps toward the Le Havre channel.

We bolt across, in a darkness pierced by occulting reds and greens, like a rabbit traversing a motorway. Stargazer finding a gap between a squadron of incoming tugs, returned from escorting a large container ship out, and an emerging liner. Seen as constant reds, whites and greens, their aspects swiftly altering. Pilot boats flit, at full pelt. One circles inquisitively, strobes pulsating, a searchlight probing. Poised, I suspect, to 'shepherd' us out of the way, should we show signs of impeding shipping movements. We slip gratefully into the stillness, of the port de plaisance, beneath the cathedral spire. 

Zen Again 148

 

Main Street bustles on market day, in Saint Vaast la Hougue. The roadway and pavements are filled with stalls, eclipsing the shop windows behind.

Spicy fragrances fill the air. Along with a hubub of sales pitches.

Although, some vendors prefer to let their wares do the talking. Whilst weighing up the milling throng.

Beyond the Ile Tatihou, the breeze blows from the east. On a fine day for kite surfers.

Although Stargazer's shelter is complete, behind the harbour gates.

Overnight, the wind is expected to moderate and veer westerly. If it does so, Stargazer will sail east, across the Baie de la Seine, as soon as the gates open.

Zen Again 147

 

Candyfloss clouds sail sedately across an innocent blue sky. Beneath them, Stargazer spreads her wings, to embrace a fair breeze, and saunters east.

Leaving Cherbourg as soon as the west going tide begins to slacken. Chasing down, and overhauling, a small white triangle ahead (Mid horizon. Right of mainsheet): Solo Sailor Petit Prince, according to AIS.

Out of the afternoon sun, a race training fleet swoops, from astern. Sailing higher and (much) faster, under balooning asymetrics.

One shaves Stargazer too close. The big kite backwinding, in our disturbed air, and winding itself around their forestay. Causing a wild broach. To avoid contact, Stargazer tacks off. Turning a full circle before resuming her course. Our would be assailants career off, into the Pointe de Barfleur overfalls, fighting to regain control. 

Stargazer stands on for another couple of miles, goose-winged once more. Giving her skipper time to brew an equilibrium restoring pot of coffee. Before gybing, the tide now firmly in our favour, for a languid reach south,  along the eastern shore of the Cotentin. The remainder of the race fleet passing, at a respectable distance, with friendly waves. Our joie de vivre revives as our passage making rhythm returns.

We raise Saint Vaast's northern Hougue as the sun is setting. The harbour gate opens, upon arrival, to welcome Stargazer.

Zen Again 146

 

"The patient sailor always has a fair breeze." So the seafarer's saying goes.

This morning, Stargazer's neighbour sailed west, bound for the Raz Blanchard (Alderney Race). With Erin still blowing thirty five knots from the west. Wisely returning three hours later, much the saltier. With a story to dine out on, of the 'survival seastate.'

During tomorrow morning, Erin is forecast to slip away. Leaving a light westerly as her calling card.

If this prediction proves correct, Erin's departure should coincide with the turn of the Channel tide. Rewarding Stargazer's patience with both a fair wind and a favourable tide, for an evening passage east. 

Photographic Note

Apologies for the fuzzy focus. Today's wind was strong enough to shake the substantial railings, to which the camera was anchored. The camera was also operating at maximum digital zoom. Making it unusually susceptible to both shake and the 'wind shear' effect, not to mention salt, in the atmosphere.

N.B. All pictures are of the outer harbour. Within the considerable protection of the first of Cherbourg's three sea walls.

Zen Again 145

 The customs cutter is driven off its station, in the Channel. To seek shelter behind Cherbourg's outer breakwater.

It seems that Erin has taken a shine to the Normandy coast. Lingering, a week after her first arrival.

Although she expresses her affection in a strange manner: Forty knot winds and forty-five degree rain. With bursts of penitent sunshine between.

The forecasts suggest that she plans to move on soon. 

Leaving light winds over the weekend. Which would suffice for Stargazer to make a short, tidally assisted hop, to Saint Vaast la Hougue. From where she would be in prime position, to take full advantage of the expected arrival of passage making westerlies, next week.

Zen Again 144

 

My phone rings. With the message that I have been waiting for. Stargazer's new batteries have been delivered. I hurry over to the Capitainerie to collect them.

The afternoon passes in a flash. Literally, in the early stages of the battery swap: I had realised that, instead of disconnecting all cross connecting cables from the post clamps, I could simply release the post clamps, with cables still attached. This strategy had the benefit of reducing room for reconnection error. But, the downside, as I discovered, of leaving unweildy cable bundles dangling. Which impeded battery removal. During the ensuing struggle, a cable shorted one of the original batteries. Emitting the kind of sizzling spark that is usually the preserve of arc welding. With a scorch mark to match.

Fortunately no harm appears to have been done to Stargazer's systems. All of which have restarted normally. Giving her skipper cause for celebration. With a substantial slice of flan aux pistaches added to the supper menu, during the evening baguette run.

Zen Again 143

 

There is something of a carnival air, on the fish dock. As crews race around, amid much jovial banter, maintaining their gear. Which covers the quays.

Whilst the fleet lies alongside, behind the sheltering lock gates

Each picks a pace, to suit their need. Methodically moving from one task to the next. No words needed, to choreograph their complicated work. Only for merriment.

Back at the port de plaisance, the desk team maintains a sharp look out, for Stargazer's DPD battery delivery. Expected during tomorrow.