An English Summer 43

 

The Scillonian has docked, her derricks already at work, offloading deck cargo, onto the quay, at St Mary's. Island ferries, dive boats, angling boats, tour boats mill busily around her. I am at work too, refilling Stargazer's water tanks, by oar and jerry can, from a tap on the quayside. 

I came ashore early, to beat the heat of the day. Although I have 'business in town,' this is Hugh Town, with its easygoing pace and sunny disposition. With two trips, out to Stargazer, the tanks are brim full and her provisions replenished.

Whilst I ferry supplies aboard, my camera battery is being recharged, behind the counter at R. Douglas. Chemist, camera and hat shop, rolled into one. Happy to help a sailor, in the Scillonian way.

I could have brought Stargazer round to the quay, to refill. However, having watched others, it seemed like an operation requiring two or three pairs of hands, for success. One to manoeuvre the boat; and one, or preferably two, to clamber up a ladder, to secure bow and stern lines.

Instead I leave Stargazer in Porth Cressa. Anchored in waters as clear, and as blue, as a bottle of Bombay Sapphire gin. The silver sand, and occasional dark patch of kelp, clearly visible four metres below the surface. 

This settled summery weather is bringing boats out from the mainland. They anchor, as close as they can, to our prime spot, at the shore-ward extent of the deep water. Another reason to bring the drinking water to Stargazer, rather than vice versa.

Martyn and Hilly have arrived, from New Grimsby, aboard their Hallberg-Rassy Rasmus, Styria (with black transom, bottom right of picture); and anchored alongside Stargazer (bottom left of picture). Much to my benefit. Aside from a supper invitation, I have received the combined wisdom, of two Scilly veterans, concerning the best walks on the island. 

We share a passion for the wild Atlantic shores of Brittany, Ireland and the West Country. With their benign micro-climates, craggy cliffs, abundant wildlife and vivid flora. And turn out to have 'discovered' many of the same, out of the way anchorages, in the time since we first met, on Belle Ile.

Stargazer and Styria are now lying with their bows toward Penennis Head. The wind has swung from north west, through north into the east, during the day. Over the coming days, it is due to increase in strength, as a low comes in. Still from the east. A direction, for which, this anchorage offers some of the best shelter to be had, in the entire archipelago. As the low passes, however, the wind is likely swing southerly. A direction, for which, this anchorage offers no protection whatever, and becomes a lee shore. My eyes will be on the forecasts, to decide when and where to move Stargazer.