Two frozen tenders huddle together for warmth, at the head of Faversham Creek.
Solid fuel stoves warm the liveaboard boats on Standard Quay. Scenting the air, with the deep tarry tang of coal and salty driftwood topnotes, through makeshift stacks.
Beyond the bohemian boatyard, and its backdrop of neatly ordered apartments, a footpath leads onto the seawall. Shadowed white, where the midday sun has yet to fall and the night frost lingers.
Spoonbills saunter in the shallow remnants of the channel. Which is navigable for an hour or so, either side of high water, by mariners strong of nerve and shallow of draft.
Thus a favourite with Thames Barge skippers. Who, in summer, guide their historic craft up from the Swale, following the extravagant meanders. On a ‘touch and go’ basis.
After, perhaps, pausing in the Shipwright's Arms at Hollowshore. Sited where Oare Creek and Faversham Creek combine to empty seaward.
It is a tranquil spot, in which to wait for a favourable tide. Set amid wind tousled rushes and rolling countryside.
Quintessentially coastal Kent.
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