Monday 27 July 2020

Down to Business


It is Monday morning. The start of a working week. Cartaret sets about the serious business of leisure.  


High overhead, the wind shrieks. Pushed, protesting, clear of the harbour by the rock buttress of the Cap de Cartaret. The fishing fleet remain resting against the tall quay. Saving their strength for another, more clement, day at sea. Secure in the protection of the port.


For once, neither the fleet nor Stargazer hurry to catch the morning tide. It is a day to stay in port and to explore inland.


Among the harbourside cafes, business is quiet. A few locals, second home owners and French holiday makers frequent them. Many tables are empty.


Some touring camper vans visit too. Mainly French, judging from the registration plates. There is no influx of boat crews from Channel Islands, due to their lockdown. That trade is normally a staple, for Cartaret. The Dutch, German and Belgian boats, which we sailed down channel with, are either to the north, in Dielette, or to the south, in Granville. Or caught in enforced quarantine, after entering St Helier - to judge by the vhf conversations. 


I combine business with pleasure and walk inland to Barneville. The houses are still picturesque, but more 'lived in.' Family homes rather than holiday homes. The boulevards wide and leafy. The atmosphere rustic relaxed.


Barneville's town square is that of an well-to-do rural retreat in the summer season. Cartaret's clothing boutiques, art galleries and cafes give way to everyday-essential shops. I buy my daily baguette and some loaf bread, for Stargazer's larder. Fresh fruit and vegetables too - misshapen but packed with flavour, in the French way. And, with reserves running low aboard, I sample my way through some cheeses. A toothsome Roquefort and a Brie to mature, as we sail onward, are my reward. Our business is complete. Stargazer is fully provisioned, once more.


Tomorrow's forecast is for seventeen to twenty knots of breeze from the west. Which means that we will be beating in twenty two to twenty five knots apparent . The 'two reefs' weather which promises fast passage making. Stargazer will have enough depth to clear the cill at twelve thirty. 

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