En France 4

 

Stargazer slips through the west entrance, of Cherbourg's breakwater. Tacking out of the channel, to avoid an incoming Brittany Ferry.

We stand west north west, along the north tip of Normandy's Cotentin peninsula. In search of the tidal eddy, which turns westward two hours before high water Dover.

Soon Stargazer finds it. Riding it west, with the trawler fleet. 

To the fish rich, tide churned waters off the Cap de La Hague. Today in a thoroughly benign mood . The Raz Blanchard (Alderney Race) offering a smooth sleigh ride south, at ten knots over the ground.

Stargazer is still carrying the last of its beneficial momentum, as she sweeps, close in, beneath the craggy coast of Sark. A tallship threads a rock girt inner passage, off the northern tip.

We harden up, onto a beat, around the southern tip of the island . Jersey a grey smudge off the port bow. Guernsey to starboard. Laying a course ten to fifteen nautical miles east of Saint Quay Portrieux. Itself fifty nautical miles ahead.

That is a full tidal cycle away. With assistance available, from the circular swirl of currents, to carry us south and west. And, with the warm sun and summer breezes, which we are enjoying, the likelihood of many a windshift to come. For now, Stargazer holds as high to windward as she can, on the starboard tack. Which is the closer, of the two, to the rhumb line.

The tides favour us, bringing our course further west. The breeze eases, through the day. Until, mid afternoon, Stargazer lies, almost becalmed, circled by a trawler and its attendant expectant gannets . I brew coffee, watching the crew watching me . Stargazer trickling along at two to three knots. Waiting to see what the wind will do next.

It fills in from the north . Stargazer's sails belly, her sheets taughten. The trickle of water, down her sides, becomes an urgent rush, once more. She rides the last of the south going tide, which sweeps down from Brehat. Threading the channel, between Ile Harbour and the Breton shore. Into Saint Quay Portrieux.