Tuesday 7 June 2022

En France 23

 


Wave hewn Atlantic shores share a certain independence of spirit, in their peoples. Evidenced by their desire to be known by their ancestral names names:  Breizh (Brittany), Kernow (Cornwall), Eireann (Ireland) and Cymru (Wales). All settled by Celtic folk, displaced by Anglo-Saxon invasion of their homelands.


The cultural links extend yet earlier. Neolithic burial mounds, set high on sea facing promontories, are a feature common to all their shores.  Crouesty's Tumiac tumulus is a strikingly elaborate and imposing example of its kind. Stone faced, three tiered, fifteen metres high by fifty long, it dominates the skyline.


 Communicating the wealth and prowess of its builders to passing seafarers. Suggesting that the sea was the uniting force for this widely scattered diaspora.


Patrolled by grazing goats today, just one generation back, this was the preserve of soldiers of the Wehrmacht. Who converted the tomb into a bomb proofed bunker, with reinforced concrete entrance ramp.


A culture is not all that these shores share. Their weather systems are similar too. Fronts scurry in from the sea. Bringing squally rain.


It is gone as quickly as it arrived. Leaving the honeysuckle refreshed and vital. Nodding its gratitude from verdant clifftops.


This particular front, which Stargazer rode to get here,  is expected to bring a day or so of strong south westerlies. Today only the doughty Glenans Sailing School boats are setting sail.

Stargazer is content to watch the surf break, beyond the harbour entrance, from within the shelter of its breakwaters.


Tucked deep amongst the local boats, within an inner basin. Where the breeze may flutter her flags, but can delve no deeper into the high quays. An option only open to Stargazer courtesy of her compact size. Whilst the forty footers languish, rafted three deep, out in the fairway. A point to consider, when next I am ogling the greater space and pace of larger craft.













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