Friday 21 July 2023

La Hirondelle 71

 

Clear waters and silver sand nestle between outstretched arms of granite. In bay after bay. Beneath me as I walk the coast path.

The trail drops vertiginously into Port Guen. Where I 'discover' a perfect anchorage. Protected from winds north west through to south east. I drop a waypoint, into my Navionics app, intending to return aboard Stargazer.


Whilst the foreign flagged boats roll in the swell, off Le Palais; the knowledgeable locals lie peacefully off Port Guen.


With an endless choice of coves and clifftop walks, when they come ashore.


A natural spring wells up, from the granite, a quarter of a mile to the east. It feeds a reservoir, built in the age of sail. The ships anchoring off Port Guen. Their pinnaces rowing in to replenish the water barrels.


Under the protection of the guns of Fort Larron, which stands astride the spring. 


And of Fort Rocher, to the eastern side of the bay.
Such was the strategic importance, of drinking water, that the blockading British fleet seized Belle Ile in 1761. Thus gaining access to water and fresh vegetables, without the need for a lengthy trip home.


This annexation required the storming of the, star shaped mediaeval, fortress in Le Palais. Which had only recently been upgraded, by that industrious military engineer, Sebastien Le Pestre de Vauban.


The soaring stone work, of the castle, blends into and augments sheer granite cliff faces.


With a double walled construction. Designed to trap, any army which scaled the outer ring, within range of the defenders manning the inner ramparts. It was believed impregnable.


Until it fell. Surrendering under siege. Only being returned, to its rightful owners, two years later, in the Treaty of Paris. 






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