Shutters are thrown open, in the stately facades of Vannes. The better to catch a cooling breeze and to bask in the embers of the setting sun. Languid evening strolls are enjoyed, around the quayside at which Stargazer rests.
We sailed from La Trinite with the long armed oyster boats. Not long after low water.
When the aquatic farms, which they tend, have uncovered and wader clad 'field' hands set about their work.
Two hours later, Stargazer arrives at the mouth of the Golfe du Morbihan. Sucked in by a swirling spring tide. Seventeen knots of breeze on her quarter.
Stargazer's skipper saws at her tiller. Eyes rigidly fixed upon the white Petit Vezid daymark. Jib furled, to aid forward vision. Tide whirls and cross currents shake Stargazer's bow this way and that. Like the proverbial dog chewing at a tasty bone.
We bear off, for Ile Longue and Gavrinis. The current across us now. Running faster sideways than we are sailing forwards. Urging Stargazer toward hungry granite teeth.
We crab past Ile Berder. Into the heart of the inland sea. Stargazer's course straightens. Her skipper's heart rate reduces.
The scenery slips by at a more sedate pace. Allowing time for the splendour and scale, of this watery wonderland, to strike home. Islets and pinnacles stud blue waters. Small craft put out from countless craggy coves.
A Breton lugger companionably keeps pace alongside. Withies, oyster racks and pastureland line the southern horizon.
Stargazer lopes along the Arradon shore. North of Ile Aux Moines and Ile d'Arz. Her skipper still attentive to pilotage, but venturing to brew a soothing pot of coffee.
Before we gybe to clear the chapel topped Ile de Boedig. Clearing the Roguedas shoal. Stargazer's skipper once more alert at the tiller.
His eyes locked on 'the pink house.' Which indicates the leading line, to clear an unmarked reef, that lurks on the inside of the bend.
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