Ad Lib 99

 

 On the Saint-Gilles-sur-Vie bank, Vendeean byways: white walls, terracotta tiled roofs, sun-bleached blue shutters.

With a sharp edged, rough stone, slate roofed, Breton style spire rising from their midst.

 On the opposite shore, Croix-de-Vie. Its church in the Basque style. More organic of form, cooler of colour, smoother of finish.

The two towns have been unified, as Saint-Gilles-Croix-de-Vie, since 1967. A frequent recommendation, as a favourite port, by French cruisers. Somewhat shunned by northern European visitors. In favour of nearby Ile d'Yeu and Les Sables d'Olonne.

Perhaps deterred by the notoriety, much amplified in the popular pilot books, of its visitors' pontoon. Which greets arrivals with a six foot sign cautioning 'Attention Courant.' Instead of the customary 'Bienvenue.' It might also add a caveat about depth. This Dragonfly afloat only by dint of raised rudder and centreboard.

Stargazer first visited last year. Receiving special attention then, as now, in the form of the services of 'Le Zodiac' (see Ad Lib 98) and the use of an absent bertholder's deep water pontoon finger. Just out of shot (far right) behind the concrete quayside. Which serves to moderate tidal excesses.