Living the Dream Cruise 2012 live update 84

Sat 21.7.12. Vannes, Quai Eric Tabarly:


Vannes and my home port of Poole have something in common. Both have a moveable road bridge. A bridge opening brings out the same emotions here as in Poole:


Anticipation as you wait;


Excitement as you go through;


Serenity as you head out.


My friend Phil left Poole on Thursday aboard "Auriga." He always gets a long way during a three week summer holiday.


He's heading south with a strong crew. We're going to see if we can rendezvous.


Its Jazz I'm listening to from the quay today.

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Location:Quai Éric Tabarly,Vannes,France

Living the Dream Cruise 2012 live update 83

Fri 20.7.12. Vannes, Quai Eric Tabarly:


Explored the cathedral today.


As the saying goes: "God is in the detail."


Or, as the other version of the saying goes: "the devil is in the detail."


The heraldic white ermine of Vannes is in there too.


Its Jazz guitar that's wafting across the quayside today as...


...boats arrive on the tide to enjoy a weekend in Vannes.


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Location:Quai Éric Tabarly,Vannes,France

Living the Dream Cruise 2012 live update 82

Thr 19.7.12. Vannes, Quai Eric Tabarly: Where to next? - is the decision to make today.




To help me think, I walk the city walls...




... as I near the Cathedral I hear an ethereal melody; sometimes choral, sometimes instrumental.




I follow the sound and listen beneath the soaring columns and staring gargoyles.




Returning towards Stargazer I have an airy spring in my step.




The strumming of a guitar, and a sweet clear voice, reach towards me across the quayside. I sit captivated.




Back aboard Stargazer the forecast downloads. There's a spell of light to moderate NE winds from Monday. The "best" anchorages on Ile Houat, Ile Hoedic and Belle Ile will all be sheltered. Decision made. We island hop our way north, anchoring as we go.
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Location:Quai Éric Tabarly,Vannes,France

Living the Dream Cruise 2012 live update 81

Wed 18.7.12. Vannes, Quai Eric Tabarly:


The stonework of Vannes startles..


....remonstrates...


...contemplates...


... and states its principals.


It's a leafy city filled with majestic buildings.


The regularity of the masonry and the soft foliage combine deliciously.


Aboard Stargazer: Food's replenished, hair's cut, water tanks are full and the washing is done.


There's an 08.30 lock opening on Friday that coincides with pleine mer (high water). Want as much water as possible, for as long as possible, on the way out. Choose our next landfall tomorrow.


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Location:Quai Éric Tabarly,Vannes,France

Living the Dream Cruise 2012 live update 80

Tue 17.7.12. Vannes, Quai Eric Tabarly: The Cathedral spire stands serene above the ancient roof tops of Vannes.




Stone figures, so finely sculpted that they feel alive, gaze down on the streets.




The streets are filled with music...




...colour and laughter




Stargazer's berth on the Quai Eric Tabarly is in the heart of it all.
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Location:Quai Éric Tabarly,Vannes,France

Living the Dream Cruise 2012 live update 79

Mon 16.7.12. Vannes, Quai Eric Tabarly: We're right in the centre of town here.




Colourful street scenes on all four sides.




Came down from Le Rocher on the tide this morning as planned. Turn of the tide at Gregan was later than I'd expected. Got to the Ile de la Jument anchorage fine though: sandy beach, woods, out of wind and tide.




Hailed from the Najad "Northern Spirit" whilst rowing around and invited aboard. Exchanged cruising tales and "best anchoring" (or mooring borrowing!) spots until time to head for Vannes.




It's a twisty route with less water under the keel than makes for nonchalant navigation - especially with the Morbihan tide under you. Worth it though for what's around me now.
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Location:Quai Éric Tabarly,Vannes,France

Living the Dream Cruise 2012 live update 78

Sun 16.7.12: Auray River; Le Rocher. Felt as if I needed just one more day in Le Rocher. Vannes tomorrow:




Plan to catch the last of the Auray River ebb down through the Harnic narrows mid morning.




Meet the Morbihan flood a mile S at Gregan. Let it sweep us E past Ile Longue, Gavrinis and Ile de la Jument into the Inland Sea.




Anchor E of Ile de la Jument for the afternoon whilst the tide rises. (La Jument is the anchorage that the Millars used to give the "baddies" the slip in "Oyster River"). Then head up to Vannes, just before high water, in the evening.
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Location:Sainte-Avoye,Pluneret,France