Into The Mystic Cruise 2013 - update 36

Wed 30.7.13: Castletownbere, Bantry Bay




Behind the ranks of sharp bowed, brightly painted trawlers...




....a church stands four square and imposing, on the quayside. Its stained glass windows sight directly down the Bere Haven channel, and watch over the ocean beyond.




The forecast weather front blew in overnight. Today a veil, of misty rain, masks the grandeur of our surroundings.




It cloaks the backdrop of green sloped, domed hills; clustered at the feet of a single, soaring, sharp ended, flat topped summit - jutting ribs, of living rock, arching and scrolling along its lean flanks, like the woad markings of a Celtic warrior.
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Location:R572,Castletownbere,Ireland

Into The Mystic Cruise 2013 - update 35

Tue 29.7.13: Castletownbere, Bantry Bay




We're in an improvised anchorage, inside one of the main trawler ports, on this coast. The forecast is for southerly winds "increasing to near gale over the next 24 hours." So I wanted to be somewhere fairly bullet proof. We were making for Lawrence Cove - a bay on the north side of Bere Island. On arrival, it turned out to be rather exposed. A small warship, at anchor, was being visibly buffeted by wind and swell. Castletownbere is "plan B."




There's space, clear of the fish docks, at the head of the harbour, with enough water for Stargazer to float. It's taken up by small, unoccupied moorings. We're anchored between them. OK so long as they stay unoccupied!




Although Castltownbere is a major trawler port, the entrance is only 36m wide. Two submerged rocks form the pinch point.




Red and white striped transits guided us in - for once, under engine!




We beat up to Mizen Head in 18 knots of breeze, swooping over a long Atlantic swell, under jib and a well flattened main.




Off Sheep Head, we cracked sheets, with 25 knots of breeze on our port quarter; and surfed the rollers, funnelling into Bantry Bay.
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Location:Ireland

Into The Mystic Cruise 2013 - update 34

Mon 28.7.13: Crookhaven, Ireland.




The wind roars and howls, from an innocent blue sky.




Our Irish tricolour snaps and cracks on its halyard.




Gone is yesterday's looking glass sea. Gusts chase down the valley, darkening the water, and sending Stargazer waltzing around her anchor chain.




A Sparkman and Stephens 34, sister ship to Ted Heath's famous Morning Cloud, has put in for shelter. She's anchored astern of Stargazer; biding her time, to sail west.
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Location:R591,,Ireland

Into The Mystic Cruise 2013 - update 33

Sun 28.7.13: Crookhaven, Ireland




The sky, behind the church of St Brendan the Navigator, is as grey as the bewhiskered seal, which scrutinises Stargazer, from a wary distance.




The barometer has dropped sharply overnight. Today's sunshine is broken by....




...short, sharp, showers, scudding down the valley.




Today the breeze is fickle. Tomorrow fresh to strong south westerlies are forecast.




We'll bide our time, before sailing for Bantry Bay or the Kenmare River. Mizen Head is the last 'corner' to round, before we reach the west coast of Ireland; under the lee of America.
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Location:Waterford and Tipperary Mountains,,Ireland

Into The Mystic Cruise 2013 - update 32

Sat 27.7.13: Crookhaven, Ireland




Through the open companionway, a wall of colour climbs to meet the sky. Shrubs, infinite shades of green, tumble around islands of pale grey rock, towards the opaline water.




Above them a mantle of purple heather and yellow gorse, clothes the craggy rib cage of the ridge; save for a few timeworn rents, where the gnarled living rock is bared to the sky.




Ashore it is Marconi Regatta day at the Crookhaven Sailing Club.




The quayside is alive with activity, as dinghies are rigged. I am put to work recovering launching trolleys;...




...and handing forgotten buoyancy vests and dry tops down, off the lichen covered stone dock, to their carefree youthful owners.




The racing gets underway, in light airs, as I lunch on fresh crusty rolls, tomatoes and Irish cheddar, from the village store.
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Location:R614,,Ireland

Into The Mystic Cruise 2013 - update 31

Fri 26.7.13: Crookhaven, Ireland




Chocolate backed guillemots rise, as Stargazer cuts towards them over the rolling blue swell. They skim away, low over the wave tops, white bellies glinting in the sunshine. Three dolphins torpedo alongside, jump once, to say hello, and dive. We're abeam of the Fastnet Rock, reaching at eight knots. Stargazer's sails bellied by a 'jolie brise' (F4) out of the south.




The ebb, from Castletownshend, carried us out to the wind line, beyond the shelter of the cliffs. We beat out between the three jagged pinnacles, of The Stags, and the lofty, heather crowned, cliffs of Toe Head.




Crookhaven revealed itself at the last moment. We ran into a bay backed by ranks of rolling green hills, dappled mauve and black, by cloud shadows and distance.




A glint of sun picked out the low, white lighthouse, we hardened up round Black Horse rocks and we were in.
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Location:R591,,Ireland

Into The Mystic Cruise 2013 - update 30

Thr 25.7.13: Castletownshend, Ireland.




The Main Street climbs steeply, past colour-washed houses;...




...rising from the shoreline of trees and a close cropped green;...




...overlooking the grey- brown masonry of the church, and grass covered walls of a ruined castle, once seat of the O'Driscoll's.




Stargazer lies to a gentle westerly breeze, in the cove, below.




Tomorrow's plan is to round the famous Fastnet Rock; before finding an anchorage, near to Crookhaven or Schull.
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Location:Ireland

Into The Mystic Cruise 2013 - update 29

Wed 24.7.13: Castletownshend, Ireland





A low, 300 miles west of us, is making its presence felt. 25 - 30 knots of wind drives white horses up the anchorage. Rain squalls drum like hoofbeats on the deck. I'm having a day below!




No boats venture out, past the protecting points and islands of our craggy haven. The only movements, on the water, are fleeting glimpses, of a lone, patrolling, seal's angular, grey, speckled head.


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Location:Ireland

Into The Mystic Cruise 2013 - update 28

Tue 23.7.13: Castletownshend, Ireland




The evening sun dries my waterproofs. We're snug, in the Cat Island anchorage; off the stone church and manicured village green, of Castletownshend. Over Stargazer's bow is the familiar yellow hull of Fair Grace, out of Exeter; last sighted in Scilly.




We had a bear hug of a welcome from Castletownshend. As we reached into the, saw toothed, entrance, between Skiddy Island and Horse Island, under fair skies;....




....a boisterous black rain squall chased out of the river valley, to greet us. Landmarks disappeared and 30 knot gusts pummelled us. I hove Stargazer to, until it rumbled off, on its mischievous way.




We had romped up, from Kinsale, past Galley Head in 18 knots of breeze, a couple of minor rain squalls (22 knots max) and a long easy swell. 'Four seasons in one day,' the saying goes!
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Location:Ireland

Into The Mystic Cruise 2013 - update 27

Mon 22.7.13: Kinsale, Ireland




It's a 'grand soft day' in Kinsale. The wind is round to the south and expected to settle south to south west for tomorrow.




I spotted a Texaco garage, about 10 minutes walk from the boat; and have filled the jerry can. So we have full diesel tanks plus a reserve. I'll top off the water tanks tonight.




Tomorrow we'll make for Glandore or Castletownshend - whichever offers the best anchorage on the day.
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Location:Long Quay,Kinsale,Ireland

Into The Mystic Cruise 2013 - update 26

Sun 21.7.13: Kinsale, Ireland




The fishing activity, in Kinsale...




....happens in the quieter reaches...




...of the upper harbour.




Today, though, boats and crews are alongside for a Sunday rest.




The wind starts to veer S and then SW from tomorrow. Distances between ports is fairly short, heading west towards Mizen Head.




For once "wind on the nose" isn't much of a consideration. We've plenty of time for tacking, on passage. Swell from the S to SE, however, is an issue for many of the possible anchorages.




My plan is to sail on Tuesday, once the wind settles into the South West. We'll have a spring tide to help us west.
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Location:Pier Road,Kinsale,Ireland