En France 63

It is a challenge faced by all the great, historic, naval ports. As fleets become smaller, ships become larger and the desire to be beyond public gaze becomes stronger ; their location and infrastructure is no longer suitable.

The original dry docks (top left, gates closed) are not able to accommodate the French nuclear submarine fleet. It is therefore based, across the Rade, on Ile Longue. A natural isthmus, much modified to accommodate naval needs, isolated from view and with direct deep water access to the Atlantic Ocean.  

Whilst this facility is clearly visible from the Penfeld river bridge. With the city centre on the opposite bank. And suited to smaller ships.

Brest's answer is to rejuvenate the redundant Machine House. (Multi-gabled, white faced building, on the skyline, above the high stone walls. Beyond the dry docks. In picture two).

Link it to central Brest with a cable car.

Turn work-in-progress into sculptural exhibits.

Add historical artifacts.

And nautical themed exhibitions.

Create workspaces. Much in use by students and professionals, for relaxed one-to-ones.

Throw open the super smooth expanses of floor space, as a slalom run, around the machine exhibits.  For use by the younger generation. Riding any form of, human powered, wheeled transport which they choose. Egged on, I shall not say supervised, by a roller blade riding superintendent.

 

En France 62

 

Land Ho! Necks crane whilst excited arms point. 

Le Francais, last sighted by Stargazer in her home port of St Malo, makes her landfall between the pier heads of Brest.

Its capacious quays already home to a vibrant collection of classics.

Their gilt-work aglow in the low evening sun.

Astern of Stargazer, rare ocean roving 'Fifers' are rafted two deep. Moonbeam, Marquita and Sunbeam. Their varnished spars muffled, against the damps of autumn and winter.

Their thrusting bows resplendent with the golden dragon of Fairlie. The Scottish yard, which crafted them, on the river Clyde.

Laid teak decks sweep aft to long tapered counters. Open and wave-raked. These boats were built for one purpose : To race in the "Big Class," aquatic jousts, of the nineteen twenties and thirties.

Built to William Fife Jr's dual yacht design principles : To be "Fast and Bonnie."

En France 61

 

With a splash and a snort, a lone dolphin surfaces alongside Stargazer. Seemingly, the scout for the pod.

Soon, word, that a new playmate has been discovered, spreads. The dolphins frolic for an hour in Stargazer's bow wave.

Stargazer is fast reaching, in eighteen to twenty knots true, off the Pointe de Penmarc'h.

Enjoying her ceremonial send-off, from South Brittany, by this squadron of aquabats. Effortlessly spearing past Stargazer, as she surfs the swell.

Before skimming back, beneath the bow. Stargazer's keel, the maypole, in their dolphin dance.

Stargazer had left Loctudy before daybreak. At the top of the tide. Which, with luck, will carry us for the next twelve hours.

A rainbow dawn breaks above the tumbling seascape.

The forecast easterly breeze, but with a little north in it, gives Stargazer a reach north. With tidal assistance, Stargazer making six to seven knots, over the ground. Ahead of schedule.

Through the morning, the breeze eases and backs south of east. I hoist the kite, to maintain progress, as we cross the Baie d'Audierne. Staying east of the rhumb line, in search of a northbound tidal eddy.

A little after one, Stargazer enters the Raz de Seine. Sluicing through, in the grip of its five knot tide rip, more or less beam on. With me on the foredeck, wrestling the cruising chute down. As the wind first dies, then heads us, from north nor' east.

Order is restored, by the time the Raz, in full spring tide spate, spits us out. Stargazer sets off purposefully. Shoulder down, hard on the wind. As if clearing her throat and saying, “You know better than that, skipper. Let’s move on, in a proper seaman like manner.”

She is soon slicing through the Toulinguet gap.

Between the wave sculptured rocks. . . . .

. . . . .and the western tip of the Crozon peninsula. Saving us valuable miles, versus a deep water entry.

It is early evening as Stargazer carries the last trickle of fair tide up the Rade.

And into the port city of Brest.

En France 60

 

Stargazer and her skipper are rested and ready to put to sea once more. After our pause in Loctudy, to savour our last stopover, for this season, on the sunny sandy shores of South Brittany.

For we are but fifteen miles (by sea) from the Pointe de Penmarc'h and forty from the Raz de Seine. Twin gate keepers to the Bay of Biscay and the splendid profusion of its summer cruising grounds.

The Raz offers a fast passage, with its fierce tidal flows ; but also has the potential for mischief. If rubbed up the wrong way, by wind strength or direction.

Sunday's forecast has looked promising for the past two days. Easterly twelve to sixteen knots. The wind off the land, reducing the likelihood of large swell ; and on the beam (most of the way). Maximising sailplan options. Stargazer's four am forecast review is resumed.

En France 59

 

Beads of sweat stand out, on the foreheads of the foredeck hands. As they take up the strain, on the heavy hawsers.

Whilst less brawn, and more of a watching brief, is called for in the sternsheets. With time to indulge in a cigarette.

The crew are warping a trawler along the fish quay.

Where a trailer load of ice, for her fish-holds, awaits.

The Harbour Master paces the dock, takes calls and chats amicably to watching tourists, whilst maintaining a close eye on proceedings.

Upriver, the pace relents.

Cormorants sun themselves on the banks.

And a slender grey heron slowly paces the water margin.

Pausing to investigate any hint of movement, beneath the shimmering surface.

The main street is almost devoid of traffic, thanks to the building of the bypass.

A short way along it, a queue snakes out of the Le Four a Bois bakers. Its patrons waiting patiently, in the cool of the shade, to collect their breakfast baguettes.

Across the street, a square-set church spire spears skyward. An ochre patina of lichen adorning its southern face.

The architecture of Loctudy is, hewn from granite, solid Breton.