En France 53

 

The waves are brutal. Steep, foam crested, cross seas. Regularly breaking clean over Stargazer's cabin top.  Occasionally toppling into the cockpit.

A constant fire-hose of solid water streams back from the bow.

It is ten years, since we experienced conditions like these. In this very spot. Clawing into Quiberon Bay, past the tip of Hoedic.

As usual, Stargazer is taking it all in her stride. Even though we are carrying a full jib (alongside the double reefed main) in twenty seven to twenty nine knots apparent. Well after it should have been furled down, for reasons of power.

But part furling the jib (even with its padded luff) would take ten degrees off Stargazer's pointing (to windward) angle. Which we cannot afford. As it is, the wind direction has required us to plot a seventy nautical mile course ; in order to cover a 'crow-flies' distance which is closer to forty.

Stargazer set sail into a wan dawn. On a forecast of a building breeze, backing from a north westerly (headwind) to a westerly (reaching conditions)

We cross the Loire deep water channel. Dodging the freighters bound to and from Nantes.

The breeze steadily building. And sticking steadfastly in the north west. 

Forcing Stargazer to take the long way round the the wind farm.

We tack, as soon as Stargazer will clear its western edge. White horses now on the march. True wind up to twenty two knots (apparent twenty seven).

It is a riotous, white water, roller-coaster ride. In (very wet) shorts and polo shirt. The tiller alive under my hand, as Stargazer drives through, under and over the swell. The tearing roar, of the wind, melds with the crash and thump, of the seas, in a wild shrieking cacophony.

Stargazer sweeps into the shelter of the Riviere de Crac'h. Slicing through the still water. Strands of seaweed trailing from her stanchions. Salt spray streaming from her sails.

Spearing on up to La Trinite, with its stone quays and slate roofed cottages. As the sun sets on a high dopamine day.