Perhaps the bushy, shelf space consuming, form, in which celery is sold, explains its scarcity in French supermarkets. For, my salad staple is surprisingly hard to find, in this nation where good food is a way of life. One dependable source is the Loctudy Carrefour. My first port of call (after the Jegou boulangerie, about to close for lunch) upon Stargazer's arrival.
The air is as still as the water. When Stargazer slips lines, dead on high water, from Sainte-Marine.
Tidal tactics, for the Raz de Sein, are uppermost on Stagazer's skipper's mind today. Once a fortnight a window opens, for a daylight passage from Benodet Bay into the Rade de Brest.
A willing wind is required, in order for this option to be viable. Both in terms of a direction which permits a rhumb line course to be sailed; and in terms of sufficient strength to maintain five knots through the water.
The tidal window is predictable. It opens on Friday, for four days. There is less certainty about the wind. But current forecasts suggest continued light airs, from the north. Neither their strength nor direction favouring Stargazer's prospective passage.
My morning foray had led me to the village of Combrit. Thanks to some head in the clouds navigation. After following a signpost to Pont L'Abbe, having registered only the 'pont' part. Fortunately, for Pont L'Abbe would be a long trek, I recognised Combrit's outskirts, from my Pogo visit. My compensation is that the patisserie serves fresh croissant on a Sunday, in season.
I re route to the shores of the Odet. Where densely wooded banks and the tall pylons, of the Pont Cornouaille, provide perfect shelter. Whilst a fine mizzle departs with a defiant deluge.
Below the deck of the bridge, vedettes hurry up river to the mediaeval centre, of regional capital, Quimper. Ten nautical miles upstream. Accessible from seaward by crossing a tidal lagoon. Draft permitting.
My vantage point reveals a lush green landscape. Part rock, part river, part sea estuary. Salt and fresh water flows mingle freely. To produce the Odet's torrential ebb (outflowing tide), when their forces are combined.
The day evapourates like Breton midsummer mizzle. Gone before it has a chance to dampen the ground.
Firefly, and her four person family crew, depart at slack water. To await the arrival of wind, at anchor, in the Iles de Glenan. Parents, still bubbling with enthusiasm for their six year old boat. Children, happily engrossed in their crabbing.
No sooner has the Pogo departed, than a very familiar Jeanneau secures in 'her' spot. Shearwater, Stargazer's forty four foot near neighbour, at home, in Chatham.
It is mid afternoon before I make it ashore. For a stroll around the harbour and on out to the point, to exercise my legs.
Watching the stream of boats heading into the Odet for Saturday night. Crew ages, generally, a generation, or two, younger than those of us making up the midweek crowd.
On the Benodet shore, the low sun of late afternoon, darkens the blue of the water to a yet deeper hue. Sunbathers retreat from the beach, contemplating their evening meals.
Peak holiday season is here. The beach hotels and boat rentals are enjoying roaring trade. The Vedettes put off fully laden.
Whilst, nestled in its craggy cove, on the opposite bank, Sainte-Marine takes life at a slower pace.
Tall, deep green, scotch pines mask waterfront retreats. Casting a cooling shade. Maintaining privacy.
Boats mill about the moorings and pontoons. Seemingly impervious to the swift flowing tide.
The racing heritage is clearly visible in the powerful, chined, hull form; and cockpit ergonomics which emphasise sail control over sun lounging. Although the latter is amply catered for. Seen only on a weighbridge, are the benefits of state of the art, proprietary, foam cored, resin infusion construction. This Pogo 36 (pictured in La Rochelle) tips the scales at just three point eight metric tonnes. (By comparison Stargazer is over a metre shorter and weighs four and a half tonnes.) It is this light weight, allied to the ability to set a large sail area, which delivers Pogo planing performance.
Below decks, the fit out is tastefully minimalist. And clearly designed by people who go cruising. Lockers line the cabin sides. Settee bases have been kept clear of tankage, to provide further stowage. Brace points fall readily to hand. Absent are floorboards, replaced by practical, wipe clean, rubberised matting, in the bilges. Which ensures standing headroom throughout whilst saving weight.
Carrying the, four metre, beam aft not only promotes sail carrying power, but creates a capacious lazarette plus two cavernous aft cabins. One of which is frequently supplied fitted out as a workshop come 'technical area.' For stowage of bulky gear. With a heated wet-locker, in which to dry oilskins, conveniently located adjacent to the companionway.
Pogo's production facilities are substantial and well organised. The resin infusion process proving particularly fascinating. It is here that the alchemy, involved in the creation of a light stiff hull, is performed. Such sorcery is off limits to cameras. As are the ingenious construction details, and inner workings, of the lifting keel.
From the cabinetry to the jigsaw puzzle of foam blanks, which are quite literally at the core of every Pogo, everything is made in house. Under the mischievously sparkling, but, I have no doubt all seeing, eye, of yard founder Christian Bouroullec. Officially retired, with the business in the hands of his sons. But, on the day of my visit, as my guide put it, "available for advice."
Picture Credits
Pogo 36 brochure picture of Pogo 36 saloon courtesy of Andreas Lindlhar / Pogo Structures
Inshore of the Ile Aux Moutons. On the rhumb line. Dodging the pot buoys. That perch, perfectly visible on a smooth sea.
We arrive off the Odet river an hour before low water. Stargazer slowed by nigh on a knot, by the rush of water still flowing seaward; and in no hurry to reach the visitor pontoon before slack water. Around us Vedette crews tumble from their bunks and rush toward Benodet, to begin their day's work. Whilst the fishermen are about to finish their night shifts and make for home.
A line of reefs form a natural breakwater, across the river mouth. Sheltering the lower reaches, in onshore conditions. Stargazer, I now remember, anchored off the beach (in the background), protected by the rocks, on passage in 2012.
Two lighthouses aligned, indicate the leading line. Ever one to clip a corner, Stargazer takes a shortcut.
Which carries us into the deep water channel, off the western shore.
Upriver, Stargazer ferry glides into the one space available on the Sainte-Marine visitors pontoon. The capitainerie RIB roars up. "Follow me. There's a finger berth free if you want it." Stargazer makes fast inside the Pogo 36 Firefly.
Her skipper is swiftly invited aboard for espresso, strawberries and a guided tour of this intriguing craft. Which was built in Combrit. A mile or so inland from Sainte-Marine.
The breeze falls still, after its wild weekend. Crews, on a tighter timetable than Stargazer's, motor onward. Leaving the Port La Foret visitor pontoon near deserted, for the day.
