Thursday 28 July 2022

Espana 22

 


The afternoon breeze, which has carried Stargazer into border country, sets the flags fluttering above the town. Pointedly, although we are still in Spain, the red and yellow striped Spanish flag is absent. Whilst the Basque, European Union and (I think) the flag of Old (colonial) Spain ripple before the smokey mountain sides.


Stargazer set sail, from beneath the 'crown-of-lamb' cliffs of  Pasaia, at the first signs of cats paws padding down the harbour. 


They had brought with them a solo sailor, in overnight from Arcachon, aboard his 6.5 metre Mini. He tentatively came alongside, inquiring "a couple?" (can I raft? in French). A delighted smile spreading across his tired face, when I reply that Stargazer is about to leave. (Picture from Lorient).


The Pasaia lighthouse dwindles to a white speck atop the bare brow of the cliff. Standing out stark and pale against the luxuriant dark green of the forest.


Stargazer slips along, beneath a rough hewn, angular, landscape tilted though forty five degrees by tectonic movement.


Dramatically incised with hanging valleys, from a time of higher sea levels.


Embellished by the curved silhouettes of the occasional off lying island and the undulations of the distant mountain ridges.


Until we reach Cabo Higuer. With its Gallic (to my eye) lighthouse ; and a name which seems to split Spanish (Cabo) and French (Higuer) heritage.


The French town of Hendaye lies across the bay.


Its waters are neutral territory. The precise border, between France and Spain, enigmatic. All the more so because the historic Basque Country straddles it.


Stargazer secures alongside, in the Spanish port town of Fuenterrabia. 





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