Sun 29.7.12. Vilaine River, La Roche Bernard. I saw the squall racing up astern: black cloud above, churned water below, opaque white sandwiched between. We'd run down from Belle Ile in 20 knots of wind.
Off Hoedic we'd celebrated our 1000th sea mile of the cruise. I'd shaken the reefs out of the main when the wind eased down to 14 knots. Now here we were: committed to the Vilaine channel, only 5 metres under the keel and falling, full sail up on a very broad reach. No room to get head to wind to reef the main. I furl the jib. The squall hits. Wind speed is now 30 knots. Speed over ground 8 knots. Depth under keel 5, 4, 3m. The rain arrives. Zero visibility. Can't see the channel markers. 2.9m depth under keel, 3.0, 2.8. I'm going to drop the main. I spin Stargazer to face back the way she's come. Down comes the main. On with the engine. Headlong rush halted.
I rig fenders as we sedately motor the last couple of miles to the Arzal lock.
A figure high on the lock wall waves me into what looks like an already full basin. Space is found.
We're in rolling countryside as we wind our way upriver to La Roche Bernard. There's an empty finger on the Visitor Pontoon too; its downwind though.
The wind's still blowing 27 knots. What the heck! I go in with the engine running half speed astern to counter the wind. I leave it running astern so that I can jump ashore to make the lines off. Stargazer is alongside; safe and sound. The sun comes out. I look around and take in..
.... the cliff that gives the town it's name....
... the glowing brightwork of the classic boats moored around us...
... I savour the relaxed Sunday evening atmosphere.
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Location:Liniac,Noyal-Muzillac,France
