Espana 25

 

"When the weather is fine then you know its a sign,

For messing about on the river,

If you take my advice there's nothing so nice,

As messing about on the river,

There are long boats and short boats and all kinds of craft,

And cruisers and keelboats and some with no draught,

So take off your coat and hop in a boat,

Go messing about on the river."

'Messing About on the River' by Tony Hatch

Espana 24

 

The elements of a plan, for Stargazer's passage north, may be beginning to coalesce. From today the Landes rocket range, which does not operate at weekends, at night or in August, is no longer an impediment.

Throughout our cruise along this coast, the afternoon breeze has been a daily friend. Blowing at ten to fourteen knots between midday and around eighteen hundred. Usually from the west. A reaching breeze, if headed north. A point of sail which gives Stargazer the option to hoist the cruising chute, to maintain full speed.

This morning's forecast suggests that there will be a belt, of ten to twelve knot westerly winds, extending south from the Gironde to around thirty to forty miles north of the Spanish coast, during the midweek. The trick will be to to use the afternoon sea breeze to carry Stargazer up into that belt of westerlies.

The timing, of our departure, will be all. Stargazer is topped up with food and water, in readiness.

Meanwhile, there is still much to see in Hondaribbia. I had overlooked the King Charles V castle, up on the walled mount.

Standing, as it does, in the shadow of the far grander church of Our Lady of the Apple Tree. This being Hondarribia (also known as Fuenterrabia or Fontarrabie) the name is an alternative to that of church of Our Lady of the Assumption. It can be hard to keep up with sobriquets, on this coast!

By whatever name, the ambiance, of buildings still in daily use many centuries after their stones were laid, is palpable.

With a labyrinth of back streets to wander. Whilst we watch how our weather window develops.

Espana 23

 

The clock tower, of the church of Our Lady of the Assumption, stands in the centre of the fortified mount. 

Close set mediaeval streets stretch away down the steep hillsides around it.

Grand porticos and mullioned windows speak of wealth and power.

The Santa Maria gate protects church and townsfolk alike.

The crest of Hondarribia set proudly above it. 

 

Beside the harbour a stone frieze tells the tale, Bayeux Tapestry style, panels set along its length, of how Fuenterrabia (or Fontarrabie, when in French hands) became Hondarribia.

Suffice to say, the story is a long and bloody struggle for self determination. Involving the kings of Navarre (in tenth century Spain), revolutionary France, the Spanish Civil War and the recognition of the Basque Country as a self governing region.

The outcome, of the centuries of warring, is that the town is Basque. Referring to itself by its Basque name, of Hondarribia and not by its Spanish name of Fuenterrabia. I stand corrected.

PS: The mystery of the flag with the red cross, and coat of arms, on a white ground (from yesterday's post) was solved today. It is the flag of Hondarribia.

Espana 22

 

The afternoon breeze, which has carried Stargazer into border country, sets the flags fluttering above the town. Pointedly, although we are still in Spain, the red and yellow striped Spanish flag is absent. Whilst the Basque, European Union and (I think) the flag of Old (colonial) Spain ripple before the smokey mountain sides.

Stargazer set sail, from beneath the 'crown-of-lamb' cliffs of  Pasaia, at the first signs of cats paws padding down the harbour. 

They had brought with them a solo sailor, in overnight from Arcachon, aboard his 6.5 metre Mini. He tentatively came alongside, inquiring "a couple?" (can I raft? in French). A delighted smile spreading across his tired face, when I reply that Stargazer is about to leave. (Picture from Lorient).

The Pasaia lighthouse dwindles to a white speck atop the bare brow of the cliff. Standing out stark and pale against the luxuriant dark green of the forest.

Stargazer slips along, beneath a rough hewn, angular, landscape tilted though forty five degrees by tectonic movement.

Dramatically incised with hanging valleys, from a time of higher sea levels.

Embellished by the curved silhouettes of the occasional off lying island and the undulations of the distant mountain ridges.

Until we reach Cabo Higuer. With its Gallic (to my eye) lighthouse ; and a name which seems to split Spanish (Cabo) and French (Higuer) heritage.

The French town of Hendaye lies across the bay.

Its waters are neutral territory. The precise border, between France and Spain, enigmatic. All the more so because the historic Basque Country straddles it.

Stargazer secures alongside, in the Spanish port town of Fuenterrabia. 

Espana 21

The sea gently sucks and surges at the cratered cliff foot, with under a metre of swell running.

Glassy calm by morning, it is ruffled by a light afternoon breeze.

With harbours closely spaced, on this part of the coast, Stargazer imitates the locals. Taking a leisurely afternoon sail to a new port. Making best use of the available breeze.

In Pasaia we are well looked after. By Anders, a cruising sailor first (his boat Odin out on the hard for refit) and berth master second. I had thought to make it our departure point, to head north. As soon we must.

But, with light winds, head winds at that, forecast in south Biscay over the next two weeks, passage making under sail does not look likely.

Stargazer can make either two eighty mile legs, stopping at Arcachon (purple circle) ; or sail directly for the Gironde. Both require a reaching wind (from either east or west) of ten knots plus.

The crew of the French Dehler 39 Sealance (which rafted on Stargazer over the St James festival) spoke highly of Arcachon. But cautioned that entry was only possible on the second half of the flood, with less than a metre of swell running and in daylight (the buoyage is unlit). Conditions difficult to guarantee at the end of a sixteen hour passage.

As usual, the wind will decide which route north Stargazer takes and when. Meanwhile there are ports, only an afternoon's sail away, to be explored. Whilst we keep an eye out for a passage making weather window.

Picture Credits

Dehler 39 courtesy of Hanse Yachts AG

 

 

Espana 20

 

I set off for the ferry jetty.

Sightseeing suspended, for the morning.

This shore has the scenic cliff path.

With its vantage point, from which to watch the boats come and go.

It has the old town plaza, with its fun and fiestas.

But, for groceries, it has only 'corner shops' and (fortunately) one bakers. 

It is on the opposite bank, with its shipping wharves, . . . .

. . . . .where the tugs lie waiting patiently for their charges, . . . . .

. . . . .that the full scale supermercados (supermarkets) lie. Ferry is the only way to reach them. A bridge would restrict shipping movements. Anathema to a seaport.