Espana 14

 

The headland beckons enticingly. Its questing snout topped by a lighthouse, as elegantly turned as any finial.

Stargazer rounds its tip and sails into the bay beyond.

Carefully following the leading line, through a narrow pass in the reef. 

The hour-glass nip point quells the swell. The shelter, from wind and sea is complete. The surroundings enchanting. It is the perfect anchorage.

Alas, the deep water pool, off the beach, has been buoyed off as a bathing area. There is no berth to be had within the harbour walls either : Its pontoons (which both the almanac and pilot suggest seldom have space for visitors) are devoid of boats, save for two large crane barges. Which are attended by a swarm of high-vis-vested men in hard hats. 

Stargazer must return to sea and reach an alternative resting place, before nightfall.

This morning we set sail from Bilbao, on the first zephyrs of the sea breeze.

Tacking east, as the wind builds. 

Mountain sides plunge sheer, from sky to sea. A scenery of solid rock and fluid water. Both undulating, finely grained and richly textured. The one in constant motion. The other changing only over millennia.

Their colours are in constant flux, chameleon-like, with the play of the light. 

Working through their chosen palettes, of the infinite shades of green and blue.

Combining their forces to produce sculptural flourishes.

Stargazer beats out around Cabo Machichaco, in twelve knots apparent.

Easing sheets onto a reach.

In the afternoon sun.

Entering, and then leaving, Lequeitio. For our tantalising taste, of the perfect anchorage - which was not to be.

I thumb through the almanac, seeking a suitable alternative port. Stargazer reaching under full white sails, making between five and six knots. A pizza baking in the oven.

The setting sun glints on chalk escarpments, as dark clouds mass above the mountains. Their downdraught spilling seaward. Speeding Stargazer on her way.

Stargazer sweeps into Zumaia, at sunset. Making her landfall beneath its blue topped lighthouse and magnificently brooding peaks.