Espana 21

The sea gently sucks and surges at the cratered cliff foot, with under a metre of swell running.

Glassy calm by morning, it is ruffled by a light afternoon breeze.

With harbours closely spaced, on this part of the coast, Stargazer imitates the locals. Taking a leisurely afternoon sail to a new port. Making best use of the available breeze.

In Pasaia we are well looked after. By Anders, a cruising sailor first (his boat Odin out on the hard for refit) and berth master second. I had thought to make it our departure point, to head north. As soon we must.

But, with light winds, head winds at that, forecast in south Biscay over the next two weeks, passage making under sail does not look likely.

Stargazer can make either two eighty mile legs, stopping at Arcachon (purple circle) ; or sail directly for the Gironde. Both require a reaching wind (from either east or west) of ten knots plus.

The crew of the French Dehler 39 Sealance (which rafted on Stargazer over the St James festival) spoke highly of Arcachon. But cautioned that entry was only possible on the second half of the flood, with less than a metre of swell running and in daylight (the buoyage is unlit). Conditions difficult to guarantee at the end of a sixteen hour passage.

As usual, the wind will decide which route north Stargazer takes and when. Meanwhile there are ports, only an afternoon's sail away, to be explored. Whilst we keep an eye out for a passage making weather window.

Picture Credits

Dehler 39 courtesy of Hanse Yachts AG