Espana 18

This is racing for real. Two kilometres, flat out, around a red flagged buoy and back.

 The harbour has taken on aspects of a gladiatorial arena. Hoarse chants, from the coxwains, mingle with raucous cheers, from the partisan crowds lining the quays. The resultant crescendo, of shouts, echoing from the cliffs.

The boats are not twelve oared pilot gigs (contrary my assertion in the Zumaia post). Nor, as I had begun to wonder, on visiting Pasaia's Whale Boat Museum, are they derivatives of the harpoon and chase boats, of that grisly trade. (Pasaia was, in its day, amongst the largest of the European whaling ports. Its fleet hunting in the summer waters off Newfoundland).

No : These are forty foot, thirteen oared, Trainera. Native to the northern coast of Spain. Descendents of sardine and anchovy fishing boats ; which required speed both to keep up with the shoals, and to reach market first, with their catch. Then they were built of cedar. Now Trainera are built in kevlar and carbon fibre. To be raced. 

The 'handbrake turn' practice, which I had observed,  is now explained. The manoeuvre is used to gain the inside line, at the mark, if rounding neck and neck with another Trainera. 

Today's course is laid beside the cargo ships on the wharves. In from the Gulf of Mexico, across the Atlantic, southern Spain and the northern European industrial ports: IJmuiden, Antwerp and Rotterdam.

At the ria entrance, which had felt narrow bringing Stargazer in, the car transporter, Auto Advance, is bound for the port. Escorted by a pair of tugs. Ready, roped up bow and stern, to apply subtle course correction.

They follow the leading line. Tight to the starboard buoy (green can, to left of tug). Giving the breakwater a wide berth. A Trainera rests on its oars, coach RIB alongside, as she passes.

Canoeists too wait, in the shallows. Clear of the entrance.

Until the ship is past. The lead tug tweaking her head gently to starboard, to help her make the dogleg turn, for the run in between the towering cliffs.