An English Summer 31

 

The topaz seas and pearl white sands of the Isles of Scilly.

Stargazer lies anchored, in Old Grimsby Sound. Norhwethel's craggy granite tors, as her backdrop. Before her, the island of Tresco. . . .

. . . and the beach, at Ravens Porth.

We sailed overnight, riding a low pressure system. Under its lowering skies and building breeze. The abrupt switch of wind direction, from north to south westerly, heralding its arrival. Setting the clock ticking, for Stargazer to sail west, before the wind settles into the west.

We get our southing in early, in case our fortunes should change. Beating out, past Falmouth's St Anthony Head and on, until we are ten miles south of The Lizard.

We tack at eighteen hundred, off The Lizard. Able to steer a little south of west. Aiming slightly south of  St Mary's, giving us a little in hand, for a likely westerly shift, by dawn; and for the northerly tidal set off Lands End. Beating in eighteen knots, in the sunshine, and twenty two in the rain squalls. By twenty three hundred, Lands End is astern and the Wolf Rock light abeam. We negotiate the Lands End shipping lanes in the small hours. Managing to hold our course, hard on the wind, with the help of some very co operative Watch Officers.

Stargazer has made good time. As we clear the shipping lanes it is clear that we will arrive off Penninis Head, to thread our way, through the rocky channels, of the southern archipeligo, well before any prospect of a pre-dawn glow. Heavy rain has stifled the moon, and is trying its best, to do the same to the sun. Despite the helpful ships officers, we have also been set north of our track, negotiating the shipping lanes. Our passage plan no longer suits the reality which we face.

I calculate a new course, using the circular tides of the Isles, and our good fortune, that the breeze is still in the south west. Stargazer bears off, onto an easy reach, a relief after fourteen hours beating. We lope up, around the north east corner of Scilly, skirting St Martins, at a wary distance. There is enough light now (zero four hundred) to pick out the surf around Golden Ball (above, seen from the security of the anchorage). 

We edge in closer. Jib furled, riding the swells under double reefed main. Taking our time. Bringing the light, on Round Island abeam. Then, committing to cross the Golden Brow reef. It, and the dogleg around the Little Kittern rock, inshore of it, are what protect Old Grimsby anchorage from swell. And are why the entrance demands navigational respect.

The ever present heave, of the Atlantic, is quelled. The roar of the wind abates. The drumming of the rain is replaced, by the caress of the sun. Stargazer has arrived in the Isles of Scilly.