En France 80

 

Stargazer steals up the Little Russel. Winning her northing centimetre by centimetre. The dawn breaking over St Peter Port's rooftops astern.

Wind and tide are against us. For we have timed our departure to catch the favourable tide, from the foot of the Raz Blanchard (Alderney Race). Stargazer is making two to three knots over the ground, as she passes St Sampson.

Affording ample opportunity to enjoy the scenery. As Stargazer passes Bordeaux harbour. Where small shellfish boats shelter between jutting rock pinnacles. Overlooked by lichen topped whitewashed cottages.

Inexorably the tide slackens. Then turns in our favour. Increasing the apparent wind and lifting Stargazer north, as high on the wind as she can go.

To the foot of the Race. Where tidal magic occurs. Stargazer's ground track (purple line) swings north east, into the eye of the wind. On the water, her bow still points a little north of east. But the force, of the north east bound torrent, allows us to follow our 'impossible' line.

Up past Alderney and the castle off Quenard Point. The white finger, of the lighthouse, clear and bold on the skyline. Marking the eastern extremity of the island.

And out of the Race. Just clearing the Cap de la Hague. Albeit at the expense of a bumpy ride through its overfalls. Where the northbound waters, exiting the Race, meet the eastbound waters of the Channel. Both leaping and swirling over (deeply) submerged reefs.

Half a mile to seaward, where Stargazer's all-weather 'safe clearance' waypoint lies, the Condor fast ferry creams past. In flat water.

Soon the seas flatten for Stargazer too. As she shoulders her way east, across the swell, the full force of the sluicing tide still beneath her

We edge inshore, as Stargazer nears Cherbourg. To guard against the tide turning west, before we reach the entrance. For the breeze is easing, as the sun dips toward the horizon.

Stargazer slips through the western entrance, on the last trickle of the easterly tide. Gliding in beneath Napoleon's forbidding fortifications. Which assume a welcoming glow, in the honey-gold light of evening.