Sunday, 3 August 2025

Zen Again 116

 

Stargazer's tactics, to tackle the Raz de Sein, are unconventional. Her skipper attempting the passage against the notoriously swiftly flowing current, with a building headwind forecast.

It is the sailing equivalent of running up a down escalator. Whilst south bound boats glide serenely by, the wind at their backs, three knots of tide in their favour; Stargazer is fighting her way north.

This escapade is only possible due to, a combination of, neap (weaker) tides and eighteen knots of breeze. The motivation is the prospect of the north westerly wind strengthening, through the afternoon; and, as the tide turns north-going, mounding the up seas, in this infamous stretch of water. 

Stargazer battles north at five to six knots, through the water. Reduced, at times, to less than two over the ground. By the south-going flow. Until, we break free. Stargazer bounds north. Speed over the ground building. Adverse tide slackening. The wind angle allowing us to close, the distant smudge on the horizon, in one mighty tack.

By evening, the grey blur has revealed itself as the teeth of the Toulinguet gap.

Stargazer slips through. Jinking port and starboard. Hunting down the swirls of wind, which eddy, in confusion, around the jutting crags and cliffs.


Bart, Stargazer’s autopilot, will have no truck with such antics. Generally lying unresponsive, seemingly comatose. Periodically returning to life, I think on a random basis, rather than in direct response, to attempts at resuscitation, by Stargazer's skipper: Power on & off, plug and unplug, clean up plug connections, prayer, leave-it-a-while-&-try-again-later; each method as effective as the other. Making it difficult separate cause, effect and coincidence, in the search for a prognosis.


Stargazer beats on. Past Camaret, where facilities to tackle Bart's predicament are limited, through the Goulet de Brest.


The seas flatten, as Stargazer sweeps into the Rade. Speed increases, with a making tide swirling us past the docks and the city centre Chateau marina. Where shoreside facilities consist chiefly of bars and restuarants. We are bound for Moulin Blanc. With its sandy beach. And multitude of marine based businesses. Our best chance, of reviving the fortunes of Stargazer's silent second crew member.




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